Medina's and souks are all very atmospheric, but it was time to leave the winding alleys behind us and enter the wide open spaces. The mountains and the plains, but mostly the mountains. With its little towns and villages, its sheep herders and friendly donkeys, where it isn't the sound of traders you hear, but of the wind, and goats. The call of a donkey echoing through the valley, a dog barking in the night, and birds twittering in the mornings. Where the nights can be freezing, but the hearth in the kitchen offers warmth and comfort. Thick blankets ward of the cold in the bedroom. The people laugh and smile, worn faces from the harsh conditions, but full of lines of mirth and friendliness. This is a different Morocco. Our first stop was Gite de
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