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Africa » South Africa » KwaZulu-Natal October 3rd 2023

Our last morning in Manyoni. It was another of those game drives where, as time goes by, you resign yourself to not seeing anything very exciting. Nonetheless it was warmer and the early morning light made for beautiful views. Suddenly Graeme’s radio crackled into life. A lion had been sighted. We turned round and set off in pursuit. When we got there, another jeep was just pulling away. We drove into the bush to get as close as possible, but the lion was still mostly obscured by grass even though he was less than 10 feet away. He was not about to get up, as he had killed a warthog and was noisily consuming it. As it’s a smaller creature, he was crunching straight through the bones. What looked like a rack of raw pork spare ... read more
Giraffe family
Dung beetles
Buffalo advancing

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen October 3rd 2023

We had an early departure from Tangier, since it was going to be a long day of traveling South on our way to Fes. But the early departure gave us an opportunity to observe the beautiful sunrise from the 15th Floor La Kasbah Restaurant at the hotel, the Hilton Tanger City Center. In addition, one of the highlights of the trip was scheduled for that day, the anticipated tour of Chefchaouen, The Blue Pearl, nestled in the Rif Mountains. The early departure meant more time spent exploring this gem. We carefully packed the pastries we had bought the night before so that we didn't have to waste the precious time in the city waiting to be served lunch. Apparently, waiting for a meal can be a lengthy process in Chefchaouen. The name Chefchaouen means "look at ... read more
Drive to Chefchaouen
Drive to Chefchaouen
Drive to Chefchaouen

Africa » South Africa » KwaZulu-Natal October 2nd 2023

We were both soundly asleep this morning when our 5.00am wake up call roused us. We dressed and stumbled to the lodge for our first cup of coffee in the hope it would revive us, then set off to look for hippos. Mercifully yesterday’s strong winds had subsided and it was at least a little bit warmer. As we drove along Graeme suddenly got a call on the radio to say the four cheetahs had been spotted, so we changed direction and headed off as fast as the tracks would allow. We were in luck! Instead of hiding in the grass as they had been on Saturday, all four were standing up and moving around in full sight. There were no other vehicles there. We sat entranced, taking far too many photos, as we watched them ... read more
Cheetahs resting
Elusive black rhino
Play fighting with mum

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Tangier October 2nd 2023

After another hearty buffet breakfast, we set out to explore the city that has served as Europe's gateway to Africa for centuries, Tangier. Our sightseeing would take us to the legendary Kasbah, the Grand Socco, and the Tangier American Legation, a five-story mansion located in the Medina. Our first stop was the Kasbah, and this sample only made me fall even more in love with the architectural style. Here, the samples of the traditional blue brought by the Jews feeling Spain in the 15th century became more prevalent. In this Kasbah, there were more buildings that have been converted to guest houses and B&Bs than in Rabat, which is to be expected from a city as cosmopolitan as Tangier. But from what we were told, they are not going cheaply, and good candidates can be sold ... read more
Kasbah
Kasbah
Kasbah

Africa » South Africa » KwaZulu-Natal » Hluhluwe October 1st 2023

In the words of the Dinah Washington song, what a difference a day makes. It was at least 20C cooler than the previous day! The wind whistled around us all night, and we felt it in our lodge through the thatched roof. It was trying to rain, but mercifully never came to much. Having previously been too hot in just a thin shirt and trousers, today we added a sweater and a hoodie and, after a while, our rain jackets. We were glad of the blankets provided, to keep our legs warm and the cameras dry. Game drives are not so scenic in cloudy weather, but we were hopeful that the cooler weather would bring out more animals. We spent the first half hour unsuccessfully looking for hyenas, and began to fear this might be an ... read more
Male nyala
Posing baboon
Black rhino

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Tangier October 1st 2023

Tangier is fascinating in many ways, not the least of which is the constant reminder of the proximity to Spain, it's landmass clearly visible from the port across the beautifully blue water. A ferry that leaves every two hours provides easy access to those who wish to spend a day exploring Gibraltar. Tangier is one of the many Moroccan cities that take advantage of their waterfront location by having a beautiful and lively promenade with access to the wide beach on one side, and many restaurants and cafes on the other side. Fortunately, The Hilton Tanger City Center, where we were staying, was situated about two blocks from the promenade. It provided us with two fun evenings exploring the variety of choices available to us, as well as also providing spectacular views from its 15th floor ... read more
Perdicaris Park
Perdicaris Park
Perdicaris Park

Africa » South Africa » KwaZulu-Natal » Hluhluwe September 30th 2023

We were woken at 5.00am by our early morning alarm call from Graeme. At 5.15 we were on parade at the lodge, with a cup of coffee to fortify us before setting off on our first morning game drive. The sun was just rising and the light was beautiful. It was already warm, with temperatures forecast to hit 41C by the afternoon – an astonishing change from the rest of our holiday. We stopped to watch some giraffe sitting down and eating. They cannot digest food in their stomach, so they swallow it while feeding then , once at rest, regurgitate it back up to chew more thoroughly. We watched balls of food travelling up and down their throats. We saw a leopard tortoise. Trivia quiz – how do you tell if a tortoise is male ... read more
White rhino
Cheetah at sunset
Early morning giraffe

Africa » Morocco » Rabat-Salé-Zemmour-Zaer » Rabat September 30th 2023

Needless to say, the breakfast buffet at the Sofitel was as excellent as expected. Afterwards, we embarked on our first day of sightseeing in Morocco, and Rabat delivered all the historical and architectural wonders I had been anticipating. I can admit with certainty that after this day, my love for Morocco was firmly established. Our first stop was the governmental seat of the country in the Commune of Touarga, the Dar al Mahkzen Palace Complex, one of the 15th royal palaces, but the one where King Mohammed VI works but does not live in. This site is the only place where photos can be taken of the guards. It is prohibited in Morocco to photograph uniformed personnel, whether policemen, soldiers, or any other governmental body. This palace, therefore, is a good place to observe the different ... read more
Dar Al Mahkzen
Dar Al Mahkzen
Dar Al Mahkzen

Africa » South Africa » KwaZulu-Natal » Hluhluwe September 29th 2023

We opted for an early breakfast ahead of a long driving day to our first game reserve. Our journey was going well until the Google Maps instructions took us onto a dirt road which petered out into a track with just a farmer shepherding some cattle. Clearly not the R68! After a 7 point turn we retraced our steps and found the right turning. At the next junction we were sent off onto a 20km stretch of dirt road, which was fine in places and somewhat hair-raising in others. We were both quietly thinking to ourselves that at least it was so quiet we would not meet a lorry, when what should appear around the corner but… We pulled across as far as we could, and allowed the lorry driver to steer past us with all ... read more
Female nyala
Bee eater
Vulture and crows on giraffe carcass

Africa » Morocco » Rabat-Salé-Zemmour-Zaer » Rabat September 29th 2023

Although we had landed in Casablanca, we were quickly transported to Rabat, where our tour officially began. At the airport, we had an opportunity to experience first-hand the relaxed attitude of Morocco's population, as we patiently waited for officials to finish socializing before tending to the long lines of travelers waiting for passport check. The trip between the two cities seemed long, probably because we were tired from the long flights, and the arrival to the city was uneventful. The extended city of Rabat, or nouveau ville, is not much different from any modern generic metropolis. Our hotel, The Sofitel Rabat Jardin des Roses, was a lovely oasis a distance from the center of town. It boasts 17 acres of Andalusian gardens, and an enormous pool hidden by tall palm trees. It also includes several restaurants ... read more
Sofitel Jardin des Roses, Rabat
Sofitel Jardin des Roses, Rabat
Sofitel Jardin des Roses, Rabat




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