RABAT CITY TOUR

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Needless to say, the breakfast buffet at the Sofitel was as excellent as expected.

Afterwards, we embarked on our first day of sightseeing in Morocco, and Rabat delivered all the historical and architectural wonders I had been anticipating. I can admit with certainty that after this day, my love for Morocco was firmly established.

Our first stop was the governmental seat of the country in the Commune of Touarga, the Dar al Mahkzen Palace Complex, one of the 15th royal palaces, but the one where King Mohammed VI works but does not live in.

This site is the only place where photos can be taken of the guards. It is prohibited in Morocco to photograph uniformed personnel, whether policemen, soldiers, or any other governmental body. This palace, therefore, is a good place to observe the different uniforms of the different branches, including the hereditary royal household servants wearing their traditional white robes and red tarbooshes. They are descendants of sub-Saharan slaves. After being given their freedom, many chose to continue serving in the palaces, a hereditary prestigious and well-paid position.

Our second stop was Chellah Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2012 that, unfortunately, is currently closed for renovations. Dating all the way back to the first millennium as a Phoenician trading emporium, the site was also the Roman colony Sala Colonia, and the necropolis of the Marinid dynasty in the late 13th century. Although disappointed about not being able to see inside, the views from the hilltop and the imposing walls were worth the visit.

Our third stop was the Hassan Tower, the unfinished minaret of an incomplete mosque that in the 12th century was supposed to be the largest minaret in the world. Even incomplete, the 145 feet tall minaret and the 348 columns being constructed is an impressive site that also contains the modern Mausoleum of Mohammed V. Having ascended the throne as a 17-year-old, he eventually became instrumental in the liberation from the French and Spanish protectorates. The name Mohammed V adorns most main streets in every major city in Morocco. His mausoleum also contains the tombs of his two sons, the principal being the tomb of Hassan II, the father of the current king.

The highlight of the day, which started my ongoing love of the fabled Kasbahs, was the anticipated visit to the Oudaias Kasbah. What can I say? The moment we approached the entrance gate I knew it was going to be everything I had imagined and more. I relished the narrow alleyways with their unassuming doors behind which beautiful riads can hide. I fell in love with the endless rooftops, and the unmatched views from the ramparts. We started from the top and made our way down to the lower ramparts for an incredible view of the beach and the port.

During our walk it was pointed out the different styles of architecture. The Kasbahs date back mostly to the Muslims and Jews that fled Spain during the Inquisition and found the Medinas already overpopulated. Although this rule may have been blurred by more recent renovations, one major difference was the absence of windows in the Muslim residences, whereas the Jewish households tended to have both windows and balconies.

Eventually, in what sadly seemed like a short time, we made our way to the lower levels and to the Museum of Ornaments and the beautiful gardens around it, still within the walls of the Kasbah. It was extremely hot inside the museum, so I regret not having lingered longer to take photos of more of the beautiful traditional ornaments from the different tribes through the times. The jewelry was elaborate and exquisite, but the cool gardens outside beckoned.

We ended our sightseeing at the Marina in Sale for a seafood lunch which brought some unexpected hilarity. We had ordered a platter of fried seafood that included shrimp and, much to our surprise, when it came the battered and crisply fried shrimp still had the full shell on them. Unable to bring ourselves to bite the legs and head, we struggled to peel them before eating them, removing all the batter in the process. However, it was very tasty, and I wished for some more of the same seasoning later on in the trip.

On the way back from lunch we opted to be dropped off at one of the entrances to the Medina. It was not part of our itinerary, and we had other Medinas scheduled in the trip, but still wanted to explore the one in Rabat. However, we chose not to be too adventurous in our explorations and kept to the streets closest to the main avenue (one of the aforementioned many Mohammed V avenues) with easy access to the exit. It's not unusual to get lost inside the labyrinths that constitute the Medinas.

After some sightseeing and some light shopping, including the first of many freshly squeezed pomegranate juices, the heat also eventually got to us, and we decided to take a taxi back to the hotel. This proved to be a challenge as our driver apparently was unfamiliar with the location of the Sofitel and proceeded to speed up and down several blocks, changing directions and pulling next to other taxis seeming to ask for directions and then addressing us in Arabic, which much head shaking. When told, our tour director was skeptical that it was all a charade for our benefit. It most likely was, but the price of the ride was still a reasonable amount, so no damage was done other than a slight panic when being honked at for blocking traffic while our driver conferred with the other drivers, and not being sure of where we were going to end up until we arrived safely at the hotel.

Back at our oasis, we once again decided to enjoy the hotel amenities for some wine and snacks at El Patio, the hotel's outdoor/indoor lounge. This time we opted for the covered patio area and chose Moroccan wines instead of champagne. We again had a hilarious moment when our cheese platter arrived and we realized that we had ordered a whole platter of cheeses instead of one, like we had thought we had.

Full of wonder from our experiences during the day, we again fell in bed tired but excited, looking forward to our next destination, Tangier.

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Photos

Dar Al Mahkzen
The small mosque at the site.