Blogs from Africa - page 16

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Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes July 29th 2023

It’s a slow start this morning as we recover from our long and sleep deprived two day sojourn out into the desert. I am however pleased to note that I do seem to be slowly learning to walk again after the several hours I spent astride a camel. I head bravely off alone yet again into the maze that is the Medina. The impossible dream is to somehow make it the two kilometres or so through to Bab Boujloud, the Blue Gate, which is at the opposite end of the maze. The walls that surround the Medina are somewhere around eight kilometres long and there are lots of gates. The original Bab Boujloud was apparently nothing special, but when the French took over they decided the city should have a grand entrance, so in 1913 the ... read more
Jewish Quarter
Intense discussion in the Medina
City walls

Africa » South Africa » Eastern Cape » Chintsa July 29th 2023

Dear All After a wonderful safari-style experience at the lovely Kudu Ridge Game Lodge and nearby Addo Elephant Park, I bade farewell to the former's very friendly and welcoming owners, and also to a lovely Dutch couple who had just arrived the evening before. While they were driving through Addo and then leaving their rental car at Port Elizabeth Airport to fly to Durban and pick up another rental from there, I was driving this long stretch of the road trip myself. I noted that most people seem to skip this bit out, and had a feeling that this part of my trip would be a bit different - I was not wrong. After having arrived at Kudu Ridge via a very bumpy, long and pot-holed dirt road, I was taking a sealed route back to ... read more
Chintsa
Chintsa
Mandela Portrait

Africa » Morocco » Meknès-Tafilalet » Rissani July 28th 2023

We rouse from our sleep deprived night, most of it spent in futile attempts to cool down by lying on wet towels in our tent oven. I have an early morning chat to our “guide” Ouma and ask her how she slept. She says fine. OK I suppose she’s Moroccan so maybe she’s used to the heat. I tell her it was way too hot in our tent and we hardly slept at all … and her response… “even with the air conditioner?”. Huh? So we paid for the best tent money could buy, but the “guide“ got air conditioning and we didn’t? I’m ready to kill someone and Issy‘s sensing I might not be too fussy about who it is. I take a deep breath and launch into my next chat … with the young ... read more
Desert camp
Desert camp
Pool, desert camp

Africa » Morocco » Meknès-Tafilalet » Merzouga July 27th 2023

Today we head off on a two day overnight sojourn out into the Sahara Desert. Our guide introduces herself as Ouma, and we meet our travelling companions, a young Dutch couple and a family of three from France. We climb steadily up into the Atlas Mountains as we head south, passing through some impressively thick and extensive cedar forests. Our first stop is at the town of Ifran, the so-called "Switzerland of Morocco". We’re up at over 1,600 metres and most of the buildings look like Swiss chalets; they’ve got steeply sloping rooves which will hopefully stop them caving in in winter when the snow piles up. Ouma tells us that this is the world’s cleanest town. We haven’t been to every town in the world, but I’m still not overly sure about that particular claim. ... read more
View from the dunes
Desert camp
Heading into the dunes


Dear All I bade farewell to lovely Knysna this morning, to continue my Road Trip eastwards along South Africa's famous Garden Route. There were so many places I could have stopped off at, it became difficult to choose. For this part of my adventure, I narrowed it down to firstly a stop at the Storms River Bridge in the Tsitsikamma National Park, a 120m high concrete arch bridge looming over a seriously stunning and high river canyon formed by the Storms River flowing deep down below. I'm not one to suffer greatly from vertigo, but walking across it and peering over the side seriously induced some knee-knocking moments for me. With a bit more time I would have loved to have explored the nearby village of Storms River by the coast. I didn't realise it but ... read more
Elephant
Giraffe
Zebra

Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes July 26th 2023

We wake up seemingly alive and well … and it even looks like we’re in the same room we went to sleep in, so we appear to have survived the night … unless of course this is yet another elaborate ruse by our would be kidnappers …. We enjoy breakfast in the ground floor courtyard next to the pool and one of the fountains .… well we enjoy some of the breakfast. I’m not sure anyone could eat everything that’s been served up and still be able to waddle out of here - pancakes, roti, flat buns, a massive basket of bread rolls, yoghurt, large bowls of fruit salad, a cup of cheese, olives and scrambled eggs, all washed down with tea, coffee and orange juice. I think I need to go back to bed. This ... read more
Local artwork
Al-Attarine Madrasa
Traditional handicrafts complete with metal beading

Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes July 25th 2023

Today we get to sample Morocco’s train system with a four hour ride south to the ancient city of Fes. The Tangier train station is an unexpectedly pleasant surprise - a large, opulent modern edifice that would put any train station in Melbourne to absolute shame … not that that would be all that hard. The countryside south of Tangier doesn’t look all that dissimilar to the farmland back home - fertile and productive, with seemingly endless fields of olives, corn, oranges and other sundry fruit and vegetables, all grown under irrigation on an almost industrial scale. And we soon realise why it looks and feels so much like home - there are gum trees, lots of gum trees - the only things missing are the kangaroos. We spend some of the time following the Atlantic ... read more

Africa » South Africa » Western Cape » Knysna July 25th 2023

Dear All I continue to drive along South Africa's Garden Route, the first leg of my epic Cape Town to Johannesburg adventure, from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth. I hit the road again the day after my whale watching trip in Hermanus, and had very much another driving day - I think there will be plenty more of these to come as South Africa is such a huge country, and my trip is not a simple down-the-road one. Fortunately I brought a good mix of songs on my MP3 player which I could listen to along the way - lots of classic US "Road Trip Anthems"! After bidding farewell to my cute and cosy cottage in Hermanus, I drove two hours firstly southeastwards to Cape Agulhas, learning quite quickly not to religiously follow my "Here We ... read more
Pontoon Bridge
Knysna Lagoon
Me

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Tangier July 24th 2023

The plan today is to take a trip west on the local hop-on-hop-off bus over towards the Atlantic coast. I ask the gent at reception where it leaves from, and he tells me that he can sell me a ticket … well a sort of a ticket … he tells me I have to give him 20 dirham, and when I get to the bus stop I need to pay the other 110 dirham to the driver. He says he hasn’t got any change for the 50 dirham note I give him, so he’ll give me my sort of ticket, keep my 50 dirham, and give me my change when I get back. I wander along to the bus stop, where it seems everyone else is only paying 110 dirham in total; none of them have ... read more
Cape Spartel Lighthouse
Tangier waterfront
Our hotel

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen July 23rd 2023

We discover that the activity of choice for young Tangierians at 5am on Sunday mornings is to tear up and down the main drag outside our waterfront hotel with their hands more or less constantly parked on their horns. At least now we don’t need to worry about our alarm clock not going off. And whilst on the subject of clocks and time, what time actually is it? I’ve got three “devices”, and at the moment they‘re displaying three different times. My iPad’s synced to the hotel wifi, so we think that’s probably right. Our phone company doesn’t do roaming in Morocco, but our phones occasionally detect a network across the water in Spain, and when they do they revert to Spanish time, which is an hour ahead ... and my Fitbit … it’s always been ... read more
Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen
Discussing the events of the day, Chefchaouen




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