I heard about Dubrovnik for the first time back in 1995 when I was traveling through Hungary. Some people I was traveling with were lamenting that this city, the Jewel of the Adriatic, had been severely bombed and damaged during the recent civil war. One of them wanted to go see it anyway, saying that she thought it would still be one of the most beautiful cities of the world, even amidst the rubble. At that time the civil war was still in full swing in many parts of the former Yugoslavia and heading south of Budapest seemed like lunacy, so I declined the invitation to join her. Now, twelve years later, I have finally seen Dubrovnik, and despite much anticipation, my first walk in the city still took my breath away. My joints were
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