When Ella announced she was staying in Cusco to learn Spanish, Salsa and Peruvian cookery instead of doing the Inca Trail I spent the next 2 days dithering (not like me I know!) about whether I really wanted to camp for 3 nights probably in the rain, with very limited facilities. But everyone said I couldn´t come to Peru and not do it, so suddenly I found myself equipped with walking pole, poncho and coco leaves (for the altitude sickness), waving goodbye to our tour guide. No going back now!! We spent the night before the trek at Ollataytambo, eating, drinking (to steady my nerves of course), dancing and learning to play the panpipes. Then at 8am the next morning we set off with Fredy, our guide and his two side kicks Alex and Jose. The
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