We said goodbye to Saigon for the last time this morning and headed east along the road. The first setback was at the end of the new dual carriageway when there was the mother of all gridlocks. Imagine buses, lorries, vans and cars all sounding their klaxons as they move forward and backward, drivers out of their seats assessing their chances of bettering their position and, amidst all this, mopeds wriggling between the vehicles in all directions! We escaped eventually and headed out of the city through Chinatown and the roadworks that reduce the road to a bottleneck every 500 metres. After a couple of hours we made stop at a roadside rest stop that was better than any service area we've ever seen - anywhere. Spotless tables, high ceilings, different dining areas, immaculate gardens and
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