Blogs from Chefchaouen, Tangier-Tétouan, Morocco, Africa

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Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen April 13th 2019

Leaving Spain at the Ceuta border you are greeted by a mass of taxis, but they are not all vying for your business. They seem to have a co-ordinator who takes all the hassle out getting a ride, and there’s no haggling for prices – they are fixed no matter how hard you try! It takes about two hours to travel along the pretty coastline, past Tétouan, and up into the beautiful hills to the blue city of Chefchaouen, all for €50. Not cheap, but we couldn’t be doing with getting a taxi to nearby Fnideq, changing on a bus to Tétouan, and then changing onto another bus to our final destination, all to save a few Euros. We were deposited at the base of the medina where an old man led us up through the ... read more
Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen April 7th 2019

Though each path is different, there is only one way ~ Moroccan Proverb HE SAID... Today we were travelling north from Fes to Chefchaouen. We enjoyed a late breakfast in the ground floor restaurant of Hotel Olympic, which comprised baguettes, boiled eggs, croissants, jam, orange juice and tea. It was a fairly basic affair, but it was nice enough. With an hour or so up our sleeve, we headed out in the brisk morning air and made our way to nearby Avenue Hassan II, which is affectionately (and somewhat overzealously) known as Fes’ Avenue des Champs-Elysees. We used the morning sun to capture a few photos of Fes in light – the city had been shrouded in cloud the day before, and it had been pouring with rain on the night we arrived. There weren’t many ... read more
streets of chefchaouen
goat's cheese drizzled with prune molasses
view from our balcony

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen March 12th 2019

Chefchaouen, Rif Mountains Morocco February 2019 “Blues is a tonic for whatever ails you. I could play the blues and then not be blue anymore.” B. B. King “No water, no life. No blue, no green.” Sylvia Earle “The birds they sang at the break of day, Start again I heard them say. Don't dwell on what has passed away. Or what is yet to be.” Leonard Cohen, Anthem Chefchaouen (35.1695 -5.2685) was founded in 1471 as a small kasbah fortress to fight off the invading Portuguese. It is 113 km south-east of Tangier and is nestled at the base of the Rif Mountains (best known as for the production of Moroccan hashish). After the 1492 Spanish expulsion, many Jews settled in Chefchaouen. It was also part of Spanish Morocco from 1920 until the independence in ... read more
Bab Suk outside my hotel room on market day
Neighbourhood fountain Chefchaouen medina
Dutch Peter on our trek above Chefchaouen

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen February 10th 2019

Today we say goodbye to Fes and head north to Chefchaouen, a town in the Rif mountains just south of the Mediterranean. The day starts badly. We’re made to wait 15 minutes for breakfast – how hard can it be to slice a baguette and make some coffee, which doesn’t matter in the grand scheme of things but irritates badly. Aziz comes to collect us and help us pull the suitcases back along the alleyways to the nearest road where Hassan is waiting for us, smiling as ever. There’s a heavy mist, which makes the alleys quite ethereal, and reduces visibility on the drive quite considerably. We head off across the plain, which is noticeably greener and more intensively farmed than anywhere we’ve been so far on this holiday, although the villages all look rather miserable. ... read more
Chefchaouen
Public water fountain Chefchaouen
Old men

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen December 22nd 2018

The Blue City of Morocco is truly one of the most interesting sites in Morocco. This is for several reasons. First of all, as the pictures will show you, the city is really Blue. The labyrinth that makes up the old city (created in the 1400s) is painted in blue. Apparently the color comes from the Jewish communities who settled there after being expelled from Spain. As for the meaning of the color several theories exist, including it's being a spiritual reminder of heaven and earth or keeping the mosquitoes away (there were no mosquitoes in sight). Second, the city is in the Northwest part of the country and as such is this incredibly mixture of Arabic, Spanish, French and Berber communities. Here my terrible Spanish was just as useful as my terrible French. This city ... read more
Caution: Mule working
DSC04658
DSC04655

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen December 15th 2017

Od CS vypadnutie okolo 9/30, kedze obe este spali nechal som im tam pisomne podakovanie. Pesi na stanicu cca15.min. Opat ako naschval nikde nic otvorene s jedlom. Na stanici stacilo povedat nadhanacovy mesto a uz ma sikoval k dalsiemu a uzaj sedim v buse. Este siel so mnou kupit listok do kanclu, samozrejme,ze s batohom ma nechcel pustit hore do busu, tak platim este za batozinu. Domaci platia tiez, len neviem ci aj oni 10dh alebo menej. Cestou casto zastavujeme bo je to obycajny bus a nie ctm resp surpatour. V tetoune mame dokonca pol hodinovu cakacku. Tu nabieha do busu predavac vody, potom predavac zakuskov. Po vystupeni v chefcha, strasne krkolomny nazov, cita sa to šefta, vonku dobra zima. Sa ale necudujem sak je to v horach. Taxi netreba,centrum je blizko i ked do kopca. ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen December 13th 2017

It’s a little chilly, everywhere, all the time – heaters are a luxury that the better part of the third world has agreed against – so we dine in our room. Breakfasts here are bready. Everything is bready. If you sat down in a restaurant to order bread, it would come with bread. Anyway, we rise with the yeast and head out into the Civil War tribute blue streets and grey skies. We have no specific plans for today other than to try and get lost in the medina. The people here are insanely sweet and friendly. The most fierce looking, unshaven, snaggle-toothed, comic book-bad guy Arab, if taunted with a, “Bonjour,” will break into a smile and respond with, “Ca va bien?” The throaty tones of Arabic have been so vilified in our protectionist ears ... read more
Wizard outside riad
chef wizard 2
Outside riad door 1

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen December 12th 2017

Okay, so we’ve made it to Tangier and we’re in the taxi collective. One interesting aspect of the journey was a police road block where they stopped our cab, asked to see the ID of the other passengers (didn’t care about our blue-eye’d-ID) and… arrested an old man! The passenger next to Steve whispered the word, “hashish,” with breath that itself should be a felony. We still don’t know why they chose him or how they knew to arrest him save his resembling the guy from ZigZag packs. Once in Chefchhueuen, we were dropped at the curb and, of course, scoped out by locals. Our French had been coming in very handy since the first petit taxi at the ferry dock, and it didn’t hurt here either. With surprisingly non-invasive help from locals, we found a ... read more
chef riad hallway
herbs
julie in chef

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen November 16th 2017

Chefchaouen is a small village situated in the north of the country, between Fez and Tanger and which enormously makes speak about him. It should be said that Chefchaouen has the characteristic to be entirely painted in blue, an original idea from the women of the region. If the tourists are so in rush to visit Chefchaouen, it is not only for it's blue color painted everywhere, but also to consume a well known product of the area: the cannabis. The quality of hash in the city is legendary. Kif or Marijuana, sebsi or join, the reputation of the city is not anymore to make. Chefchaouen is maybe blue, but it has the green hand.... read more
Chefchaouen city
Blue arcade
Blue mosaics

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen May 17th 2017

Geo: 35.1716, -5.27069We awoke this morning to the "call to prayer", such a characteristic element of the Muslim world. We enjoyed a nice breakfast of bread, cheese, olives, jams, honey, crepes and coffee, prepared by our Riad host. We then met Morad for a nice, leisurely stroll of the Medina and old town of Chefchaouen. This beautiful, mountain-top city has many buildings which are painted blue, giving the town a cool and unique feel. Unlike places like Egypt, here the shopkeepers do not aggressively try to drag you into their shops, and our walk through the city is most pleasant. We top for a coffee in a cafe on the main square, before heading out to drive back to Tangier.Upon arriving back in Tangier, Morad takes us to one of his favourite old restaurants, with all ... read more
Jim outside our hotel
Chefchaouen the "Blue Pearl"
A old way of washing clothes and rugs




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