Blogs from South America - page 5

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South America » Ecuador » South » Cuenca January 25th 2024

(Author’s Note: I visited Cuenca and surrounding areas in Azuay Province during the second and third weeks of January 2024. During this time, the Ecuadorian government had established a state of emergency to combat the drug gangs in the country. Except for a few pockets of violence in and around the city of Guayaquil on the Pacific coast, the country was as tranquil and safe as normal. This trip marked my fifth time to Ecuador, and the experience was as peaceful and enjoyable as the previous four.) The cold wind whipped down the rocky slopes of the mountains into the depression where glaciers had carved out a lake. The altitude was 13,000 feet above sea level. The air was thin. I breathed heavily as my guide led the way on a portion of an Inca trail ... read more
Typical Street In Cuenca
New Cathedral
Blue Tiled Domes of Cathedral

South America » Argentina » Jujuy » Humahuaca January 24th 2024

Normally this time of year I am in Eastern Africa to visit new potential partner organizations as well as check back in on my existing relationships in Uganda. But my two partners in crime in Uganda - Irene and Hope - received a last minute opportunity to attend a leadership program in the UK for 4 months and so will not be in country when I had planned to visit. After learning this, I decided to switch up my travel for this winter. I am back in South America for a combination of work for Lift Her Up Foundation and bit of tourism. I have three pilot loan programs that I am starting in the first quarter of 2024. The first one will be with the group in Bolivia that I visited last year. They needed ... read more
Quebrada de Humahuaca
7 Colors Mountains
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South America » Argentina » Buenos Aires » Buenos Aires January 22nd 2024

Breakfast in our hotel before heading to the airport. Our flight to Buenos Aires took three hours. We check back into the Recoleta Grand Hotel, we left a suitcase here with our summer clothes at the hotel. Tonight we have our farewell dinner at a steakhouse in Puerto Madero. Puerto Madero is a waterfront renovated area. It is now the most upscale area to live in Buenos Aires. The bus dropped us off and we walked along the waterfront and over a bridge to the restauran. We enjoyed a steak dinner with salad, fries, desert and wine. It was a nice farewell to the group. Breakfast is in our hotel then we get on the bus and head to the cemetery in Recoleta. We visted the cemetery with Christopher and Laura but we went along anyway. ... read more
Street Art in Palermo Soho
I like finding Tango Dancers on the bridge
Tango Dancers

South America » Chile » Santiago Region January 21st 2024

The last few days of the cruise were relatively uneventful - as we headed north among the fjords on the Chilean coast, the weather steadily warmed to a comfortable 20C which allowed everyone to lounge outside in the sun and fresh air. The sea conditions were somewhat rough with some large swells but by now we were used to it. The one change due to the higher than usual waves was that we could not port at San Antonio and, instead, headed for Valparaiso. I will start with a short review of the cruise itself. The boat itself, the Sapphire Princess, is a large and fairly modern ship. The rooms were relatively large compared to other cruise ships and comfortable. We did not have a balcony, however, it was really not necessary. We were only one ... read more


After breakfast in our hotel we head to Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares Nation Park. The park is the largest park in Argentina at 2,806.68 square miles. In 1981 it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. A giant ice cap in the Andes the largest outside of Antarctica, Greenland and Iceland feed 47 large glaciers in the park. Perito Morton Glacier which we will visit today remains stable in size because it is accumulating mass at the same rate it is losing mass. We will visit the glacier where it terminates into Argentino Lake. At the terminus the glacier is 3.1 miles wide and average height of 240 feet above the surface of the water. Many tour operators can be found in El Calafte offering boat tours and mini-trekking options. We are not ... read more
Glacier Ocerlook
Perito Moreno Glacier
On walkway in front of Glacier

South America » Chile » O Higgins » Santa Cruz January 20th 2024

We say goodbye to Chile today and head back to Argentina. Breakfast in in our hotel then we load our bags onto the bus to head to Calafate. We change busses, bus drivers and local guide at the Argentine boarder. Out in the middle of nowhere we stop at a sheep ranch called Chali Aike. The owner of the ranch gives us a tour of the ranch. Our lunch bbq lamb is cooking over a wood fire. He tells us how this ranch has been in his family since his great grandfather bought the property. His great grandmother stayed on the ranch while his great grandfather traveled to buy sheep. It took his grandfather two years to travel to buy the sheep and herd them to the ranch. Sheep wool has been the main money earner ... read more
Visitor Center in El Calafate
Owners nephew hold lamb
Our lunch cooking over a fire

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine January 19th 2024

I feel better today but not 100%. I join our group on a hike to a waterfall. We have a buffet breakfast in the hotel then head out for our hike. We try to drive to the trail head but it is so windy the rangers have closed the road to the trail head. Our bus parks and we decide to walk to the trail head. It is an easy (except for the wind) slight uphill hike. The waterfall is beautiful. There is a lot of water in the park, glaciers, rivers and lakes. There is no swimming allowed in the park, which is not a problem because it is summer now and too cold to swim. We were given box lunches and after our morning hike our bus takes us back to our hotel. Those ... read more
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Hike to waterfall
Waterfall flows to lake

South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego January 18th 2024

As we sail north away from Antartica I will make a mention of the many research stations located here. The first permanent bases were established by the British during WWII. The Germans dropped swastika markers from planes making a symbolic claim on the Antarctic and that, coupled with Argentina's apparent sympathy towards the Nazis, prompted the English to set up a number of military bases. Today these bases, along with many others have been converted into research stations. In 1959, fifty five countries signed a treaty protecting the region and allowing research stations to be constructed. These hundreds of stations fall into 3 categories - permanent, seasonal and discontinued. One of the largest is the Amundsen-Scott base located directly on the South Pole by the US. Most of the bases are located on the coast. In ... read more

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine January 17th 2024

I was sick with stomach issues all last night. No sleep so today I will rest. Unfortunately it is a travel day, we are heading to Torres del Paine National Park. The park was declared a World Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1978. This beautiful wilderness park is popular with backpackers and mountain climbers. They have cabins where hikers can sleep and eat. They are shared cabins not individual cabins. There are campsites also. No camping without reservations and no campfires are allowed in the park. It is very windy here and a campfire could burn the park down which did happen when a camper burned his toilet paper and the flame flew away. Our first stop is a ranch where our group will learn about how gauchos live. A one hour horse back ride followed ... read more
Hike in the park
We made it the park
Horse back riding

South America » Chile January 16th 2024

We wake up this morning with our fingers crossed. Today if the weather cooperates we will go to Cape Horn. We are told that 40% of the time the waters are too rough for us to land on Cape Horn. Cape Horn is located on Hornos Island in Chile. It is surrounded by wild seas where the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans meet. There are powerful currents, frequent storms and narrow passage makes it a dangerous route. A memorial on the island commemorates the 800 ships that sank and 10,000 lives of seamen who died trying to sail around Cape Horn. The weather looks good and we are told to get ready to go. I wear long underwear top and bottom, travel pants (designed to keep pickpockets out of your pants), rain paints, hiking thick socks and ... read more
Wulaia Bay
On the zodiac boat
Mark at Cape Horn




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