The last (real) day of the trip began like the others, with runny eggs (I skipped this time) and really strong, viscous coffee. I feel like our hotel stays were like a pyramid -- began low with the Amazon, peaked with the 5-star hotel in Lima, then slid back down the ramp to this little inn in the crappy city of Puno, and ending with practically camping on the island (unless you count sleeping on the plane as the end, which was really the perfect ending). Waking up in the 12,000 ft atmosphere, my mucous membranes were so dry that my throat hurt, and everytime I blew my nose it bled. Now I know why they call it the nosebleed section. We hopped in the little tour van and took off for the pier. There, we
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