Blogs from Coquimbo Region, Chile, South America - page 7

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South America » Chile » Coquimbo Region » Pisco Elqui January 30th 2011

Geo: -30.0715, -70.4677We're told they ran screaming from the beach, scared of tsunamis. They said it was scary in the city too, but worse by the ocean as it was centered only a few miles off shore.But we were miles away.After three weeks in La Serena we were ready to bust outta town so we hopped a bus to the much touted Elqui valley east of here and totally missed the earthquake. Dang it.Anyway, it was a multi-stop ticket so we could get off and on as we wanted...in theory anyway.To picture how dramatic the valley is, picture the mountains as a cake. Then cut out a very narrow slice and put in it's place a few vineyards clinging to the slopes and a string of small pueblos.That's the Elqui. Well actually, that would be a ... read more
Cacoa, Fruit of the Cactus
Adults Only, a Shot of Pisco
Bedframe Ladder

South America » Chile » Coquimbo Region » La Serena January 28th 2011

Geo: -29.9008, -71.2448This little man really touched my heart. He's probably 40 or so--a little short guy with flat eyes a body quick and sharp.I heard his clap clapping to the music a block before I saw them. He dancing and slapping two seas shells to the drum beat of a happy song, his sister standing...watching fondly. She was coating his face with sun block when we walked up and her tenderness towards him drew me to them. I asked if I could take some pictures, Bob tossed in some coins, and I sat on a street side planter to catch the show.There are a dozen street performers here every day--with drums, flutes, dancing puppets, tambourines, sometimes a whole band, but none of them reached into my heart like this sweet little man and his sister. ... read more
Street Performer
Street Performer

South America » Chile » Coquimbo Region » La Serena January 25th 2011

Geo: -29.9008, -71.2448The warmth. The noisy connectedness of the Latino family. The shared-ness of it all. Big and laughing and talking all at once. That was dinner tonight. A usually pretty quiet affair with everyone tired from the day's doings turned into a gathering straight out of My Big Fat Greek Wedding.WE LOVE IT! With Tere usually not getting home from work until 8 or after most nights, everyone's pretty tired by dinner time, but today we had company. Her 2 month old grand daughter and mother are here for a week so they and Tere's mom made 7 for dinner. Seven until Tere's secretary and her husband popped in during desert. Now there's 9 and everyone's talking at once. What fun. We're just sitting here watching and loving it. They're giving Bob a tease because ... read more

South America » Chile » Coquimbo Region » La Serena January 24th 2011

Geo: -29.9008, -71.2448Our friend in Santiago said we had to try pastel de choclo, a dish made of fresh corn layered with meat and baked in the oven. It sounded enough like humitas, my all time Argentine favorite, that when Carmila and Tere said they'd make it I jumped in and asked if I could help.There are so many steps to this dish it's a good thing there were three of us. With the Beatles cranked up and Bob hiding out in the back room, we went after it. First you have to husk the corn. Well that's after you go to the farmer's and buy the corn. Most of the new words I don't remember, but "pelo de choclo", hair of the corn, sticks. You can see it, can't you?Then we cut the corn off ... read more
El Pelo de Choclo
Carmila Builds the Cerviche
Then we cut off all the corn

South America » Chile » Coquimbo Region » La Serena January 23rd 2011

Geo: -29.9008, -71.2448Finally after being here a week, we made it to the beach, la playa. It was a long walk but thankfully, all downhill.We were all set to be in a crowded mix but when we got there it was nearly deserted. The fog that blankets the whole town each morning didn't burn off until 3:00 yesterday and it was 5:00 before people started pouring onto the beach. But suddenly groups of 20 or 30 appeared out of nowhere like the whole city had been turned on end and everyone was tumbling out.The beach must be at least 12 miles long, laying like a necklace along the bay between the cities of La Serena and Coquimbo. By 7pm it was a mass of colorful umbrellas and suimsuits. It doesn't seem warm enough for swimming, but ... read more
Pollo Asado
The Faro
Where Are The Bodies?

South America » Chile » Coquimbo Region » La Serena January 18th 2011

Geo: -29.9008, -71.2448Last night we're sitting on the bed studying with our books spread all around and the place starts to shake. The bed's a rocking and Tere comes down the hall, tranquillo, she says. Be calm. It's only a little one.Okay, but it's big enough to make the bed feel like a cheap hotel.It lasted quite a while, one after another, and we laughed at her because she was so calm. Oh, they happen all the time.After all, this is Chile.... read more

South America » Chile » Coquimbo Region December 25th 2010

Le jour de Noël, on part pour la Punta de Choros. L'étape n'était pas prévue initialement, mais je suis sérieusement en manque de plongée et il semble qu'on puisse plonger dans le coin. Le village n'est pas facile d'accès mais on finit par prendre le minibus quotidien qui s'y rend depuis La Serena. Notre chauffeur nous aide à trouver un logement pas trop cher et nous présente à quelqu'un qu'il connait dans le centre du village. Finalement, on aura un petit bungalow avec 3 chambres, salle à manger, cuisine... pour 15 euros la nuit ! Le village semble construit sur une plage, entouré par les dunes avec les rues en sable. C'est la basse saison, et dès janvier, les touristes chiliens vont remplir tous les petits bungalows au bord de la plage. Les îles Damas et ... read more
Iles de la Punta de Choros
Le "village" de Punta de Choros, au milieu des dunes
Les otaries

South America » Chile » Coquimbo Region » Pisco Elqui December 23rd 2010

Après une nuit de bus depuis Mendoza, où on sera passés à Santiago, puis remontés le long de la cote jusqu'à La Serena, on prend un petit bus pour rejoindre Pisco Elqui, au fond de la Vallée de Elqui. La ville est célèbre pour sa production de la liqueur du même nom, le Pisco, et la Vallée pour ses paysages diurnes, mais aussi nocturnes. En effet, le ciel étant très clair, les nuits sont très étoilées. En arrivant on part visiter une fabrique de Pisco. Le Pisco est produit à partir de vin distillé, qui sort de l'alambic à près de 80°C puis est dilué pour atteindre 35-45 ou 55°. Le Pisco se boit un peu comme du whisky: seul, avec une boisson gazeuse ou avec du jus de fruit, mais c'est surtout le cocktail Pisco ... read more
Vieil alambic
Vieux tracteur
Le telescope de l observatoire

South America » Chile » Coquimbo Region » Pisco Elqui November 30th 2010

Because Dana had suggested it, Lucy and I boarded a bus today headed to the Elqui Valley where they make Chile´s natinal drink, Pisco. It is also claimed by Peru as their national drink but we all know Chilean is better... Anyways, during a two and a half hour bus ride we saw spectacular views of the valley. On both sides, dry mountains stand with nothing but rocks, sand and cactus. Then, in the middle of the valley floor there are endless fields of vines. The green colored contrasted so much with the dusty sand of the mountains that sometimes it seemed from a dream. We stopped at the little town of Pisco Elqui to admire the town and the Mistral Pisqueria but it was too expensive so we just wondered around. ... read more

South America » Chile » Coquimbo Region » La Serena November 29th 2010

We had our first go on South American buses, a 7 hour journey north to the town of La Serena. Incredibly after our previous bus journeys this actually seemed short! We're pleased to report that Chile buses rock, the seats are similar to business class aeroplane seats. Much easier to take a snooze in with the seats near horizontal and a pop out foot rest...bliss. La Serena was a pit stop enroute to the Atacama Desert and we had intended to see a few of the sights, however we only had 2 days there and plans didn't work out so well. We arrived on a Sunday for starters and it was like a ghost town. The only place open for dinner was a 'local' fast food joint, we bought something big, fried covered in a rainbow ... read more
La Serena lighthouse
RUN!!!!
Enjoying the vineyard visit plonk




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