I am glad National Parks are not like Museums. After three hours in the latter my mind is full, my eyes glaze over and I want to sit down. Not so in Patagonia. After eight hours of clear blue lakes, forest from shore line to tree line, snow capped peaks, cavernous forest glades and wildflowers, I am on a high. Dropping South from Bariloche on Ruta 40 towards Trevelin, I took the gravel road less travelled by. It was very different. Winding through the foothills, most of the road led through the Alerces National Park declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2017. Why? It seems that the Alerces, 'fitzroya cupressoides', are amongst the oldest living trees in the world. One found on an island in the park on lake Menendez, has clocked 2,600 years. It
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