Looking back at the beginning of our planning of this crazy adventure, Kati told Mark she had three goals of things she wanted to see in Patagonia - whales, penguins and glaciers. In the first week of December, we accomplished all three. We are on a 30-day dash through southern Patagonia - classic backpacking style - before we stop in Bariloche for the month of January. This means lots of one-night stays, transportation of every variety, packing and re-packing our trusty and hated mochilas, and always planning, booking, calling, reserving, haggling our way from hostel to campground or hospedaje; gambling on the bed (bunk or regular, 2 or 4 or 6), the shower, the kitchen. It is for the youth, not these old fogeys. If we play our cards right, only about two months of our
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