Mother Nature has stocked Puerto Madryn and the nearby Valdez Peninsula, the Atlantic coast entry to Patagonia, with wonderful treasures that change through the seasons. I was there in the sizzling summer, in February and just in time to see half a million adorable Magellanic penguins and their fluffy chicks as well as large colonies of huge, brown southern sea lions and their little black pups, a few elephant seals imitating logs, rheas (ostrich-like birds), lots of sea birds--cormorants, red-beaked and legged black oyster catchers, giant petrels and kelp gulls--and herds of guanacos (wild camelid relatives of llamas). Not seen by me were lots more animals, including foxes, armadillos, orcas, spinner dolphins and the southern right whale which goes there to breed and give birth. The 21-hour marathon bus ride that brought me here from Buenos
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