Blogs from Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada, North America


We drove to Deer Lake. Nothing eventful to talk about. Didn't see any moose. We spent the night in a delightful B&B in Deer Lake. The next morning, we drove through Gros Morne National Park. Beautiful mountains, lots of small fishing villages and lovely coastal roads. We ended up at the Wildberry B&B and lodge. Pretty rustic. Mostly no internet and no cellphone service. We got up the next morning and headed over to L'Anse Meadows. This is a Nordic village built nearly 1 thousand years ago. It is the first landing of Europeans on the North American continent. When they came into contact with the natives, it is believed to be the first meeting of homo sapiens who travelled from Africa and headed east and west through Europe and Asia and over the Bering Straits ... read more
On the way
Arches Provincial Park

We continue to dodge rain but are so enjoying the ride. Long stretches of barren forest, mountains, and rivers. Oh and lots of black flies! We’ve been riding on the Transcan Highway with some good long hills but with reasonable grades and a wonderful tailwind. We left the Transcan and started on 430 North, the Viking Trail just after Deer Lake and had our first bout of headwind. Stopped at a Tim Horton’s and met our first bike tourist in NF. A young Italian living in Toronto and heading for St John’s. He’s been on the road for 8 weeks and had a lot of the cold snowy weather we missed. He’s ready to get home! And just on the 430 we had to stop at the Insectarium! What a great place! A display of developing ... read more

Another good day in Newfoundland despite the constant threat of rain. I found three walking sticks at three different beaches (sorry Suzanne). I started the day off with a short 1 km trail - Steve's Trail. It led to a rocky beach where one could see examples of volcanic rock. I also launched a "message in a bottle" while there. Then off to Broom Point where one could walk around a seasonal fishing settlement. Fishermen fish for short periods of time with no permanent residence at the location. The day before while driving I noticed large stretches of sand and sand dunes which I wanted to visit. I found the Shoreline Trail and walked for about 10 minutes to large sand dunes and a long stretch of sandy beach. Imagine, sand dunes in Newfoundland. If it ... read more
Steve's Trail
The coast at the end of Steve's Trail
The coast at the end of Steve's Trail

Left Twillingate for Gros Morne. After a five hour drive I took the rest of the day off. Today, despite the overcast weather and constant threat of drizzle, I had a busy day. First off was a visit to Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse. There I hiked three of the short trails, two of which had beach access. Then off to Green Point Geological site. I walked along the beach, looked at the rock walls apparently home of fossils. Further North, I hiked the Cow Head Lighthouse Trail, about 2 km in length. There was a beach access and one could see the unique limestone rocks associated with the area. My final stop was the Arches Provincial park, a very unique rock formation along the shore with three large arches carved out through erosion. Luckily, no drizzle ... read more
Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse
Beach at Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse
Beach at Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse

All sorts of strange things happen when your island is rising. For instance, what used to be a glacier gets changed into a fjord, and then becomes a lake. Same vertical walls sloping straight down into the sea – except that you can walk there. I did, at Gros Morne National Park. I must confess I was rather skeptical about a lake being a fjord, but it all made sense when I got there. The Park is right on the coast. The mountains are only 2,500 feet high, but they are dark, made of granite and go straight up, making them very imposing. Newfoundlanders being a fit bunch, they make you walk 3 km to get to the lake. The boat ride across the lake was quite exciting, as the wind was blowing 20 mph or ... read more
The start of the march across the bog
Is this a bog?

This is a five day adventure story. July 18 After four good sleeps at the Viking RV park in Quirpon, a Sunday visit to the local United Church where sitting and singing with Guy the old geezer from the RVcamp made for an enjoyable hour, the bedding and clothes laundered in one shot because of two machines, the oil changed early Monday morning at a very local garage and a three hundred and seventy four kilometer drive, the Adventure is ahead of itself by two days. The drive south along the western side of the Northern Peninsula is constantly changing from pebble strewn, windswept shores to coniferous trees stunted and bent by the wind to small villages made up of square white clapboard houses but no shops and again and again mountains of wooden lobster traps ... read more
The Boardwalk to Westbrook Pond
Westbrook Pond Fjord
The Little Ship that Could

July 12 +13 Gros Morne ... the famous Gros Morne was reached. OK... so only for one night ... but the twentieth will see a four sleep visit. From La Scie to Gros Morne was far and long... 236km ... because of numerous stops for; coffee, food, toilets, attractions, moose, rock formations, construction, craters called pot holes and the Newfoundland Insectarium. The sign stands at the side of TCH (Trans Canada Highway) and the van headed there immediately. Lucky move! ... this also being the road leading to Gros Morne. The imported $1200 a month cocoons and chrysalis hang beyond a picture window on rubber tubes, the kind that cover and insulate water pipes in the basement. There was much excitement as The Morpho Butterfly from Venezuela emerged from its tiny green chrysalis. The wings become ... read more
Wild Ride Thru a Hanging Valley

The weather has turned. It's considerably warmer this morning. Blue sky with high clouds, and very windy. We eat a home-cooked breakfast, individually prepared by Cassie, in the B&B dining room in the company of our new friends from last night. After breakfast, we check out. We head over to the L'Anse aux Meadows Visitors Centre. We have a few minutes to review and complete our perusal of the exhibits before the first tour of the day starts. One theme that pervades the exhibits is "completing the circle." The idea is that modern humans spread out from Africa some 100,000 years ago and gradually spread all over the planet. When the Vikings met the aboriginals at L'Anse aux Meadows, as we know they did, this marked the closing of the circle of migration. An intriguing idea. ... read more
Entrance to Viking village
Main building of Viking village
There are real Vikings inside!

A cold, blustery morning. As I later hear someone say, "B'Jesus, she's some cold today, b'y." Wayne serves us continental breakfast in his dining room. As we chow down, we learn a little about him. Originally from the area, ex-military and retired, he bought the B&B several years ago. Same old story: working harder in retirement than ever. I noticed last night that there's a piano in the living room. Would Wayne mind if I played for a while? Of course not, says Wayne, but the dog may sing along. Shilo is a golden lab mixed with something whom we met last night. As soon as I strike the keys, she raises her head into the air and joins in–loud! She clearly thinks she is singing along. We I stop, she stops. When I start up ... read more
View of Trout River Bay
Southeast Brook Falls
Lobster Head Cove Lighthouse

We awake to a sunny but windy day in Twillingate, with many clouds in the sky, some threatening. It's rained at some point in the night and the temperature is noticeably cooler. We check out of the hotel, then tour Twillingate. The original name of the town, by the way, is Toulinguet. It was so named by the French because the rugged coastline reminded them of this area in Brest. But Toulinguet did not trip lightly over the English tongue and Twillingate is the result. We visit the Twillingate Museum, lovingly put together and maintained by community volunteers in the former Anglican rector's house. It's well worth the visit, with many interesting stories to piece together from the displays. One of these is the life of Georgina Stirling, born in Twillingate, who became a world-renown operatic ... read more
Auk Island Winery
Scene of Durrell. Twillingate in background
Countryside around Twillingate

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