NFLD Day 9

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A cold, blustery morning. As I later hear someone say, "B'Jesus, she's some cold today, b'y."

Wayne serves us continental breakfast in his dining room. As we chow down, we learn a little about him. Originally from the area, ex-military and retired, he bought the B&B several years ago. Same old story: working harder in retirement than ever.

I noticed last night that there's a piano in the living room. Would Wayne mind if I played for a while? Of course not, says Wayne, but the dog may sing along. Shilo is a golden lab mixed with something whom we met last night. As soon as I strike the keys, she raises her head into the air and joins in–loud! She clearly thinks she is singing along. We I stop, she stops. When I start up again, away she goes. It's hilarious, and Vi and I can barely speak, we are laughing so hard.

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We settle up with Wayne and head north on the 430. We soon cross the boundary into Gros Morne park. In Wiltondale, we gas up and switch to the 431, heading west towards the coast. We stop at Woody Point to enjoy the scenery. There's a fairly large cruise ship anchored down below in the bay.

We take a switchback turn in the direction of Trout River. Just down the road is the Gros Morne Discovery Centre, which features great instructional displays on the geological and natural history of Gros Morne, including a short movie. The Parks Canada rep is extremely nice and helpful for planning out what we are going to do in the time we have.

We continue down the road towards Trout River. The weather is extremely changeable. Sunshine alternates with rain and ice pellets. Quite a strong wind. We have moved to three layers when spending time outside.

The scenery is spectacular. The most conspicuous geological feature of the area is what are called the Tablelands. They are ancient chunks of the Earth's mantle that have been thrust up by the collision of two plates. There are several of these mountains, each one flat on the top with steep cliffs all around. Almost nothing grows on them, so they stand out from their surroundings. The reason is twofold: their sides are extremely steep and, most importantly, their mineral composition does not offer the nutrients needed by plants and trees.

We reach the community of Trout River at the end of the road. The town has a river running through it and is surrounded on two sides by long, narrow "ponds" that were originally fjords but have been cut off from the sea. We have lunch at the Seaside Restaurant: fish chowder and cod burgers. The restaurant is closing for the season after today.

We retrace our journey down the 431, stopping for a hike along a trail that snakes through the badlands surrounding the table mountains. There is a gaggle of Germans from the cruise ship at the same trail head. They are making appreciative noises about the view.

We are now back to Wiltondale, where we rejoin the 430 heading north. We stop at a trail head where we meet a young woman with a chihuahua who has set herself the mission of walking every trail in Gros Morne–with her dog. She beetles ahead of us. The hike takes us on a heavily wooded trail leading to a spectacular waterfall where Southeast Brook throws itself off a cliff. I am able to clamber up to the crest of the waterfall. What a thrill it is to gaze down at the empty air down below you and follow the tumbling ribbon of water with your eye into nothingness. It's only spoiled by Violet bellowing at me to get down from there, you idiot.

We continue down the highway. A short detour through Rocky Harbour and on to Lobster Head Cove, where stands a historical lighthouse. We're lucky to be greeted by Bonnie Lou, a local with an encyclopedic knowledge of the history of the lighthouse and in fact of the entire area. Leaving the lighthouse, I enjoy navigating the steep paths around the lighthouse down to the cliff that hangs out over the ocean.

The final leg of today's journey brings us to Cow Head. We check in at the Shallow Bay Hotel. Nice room with an ocean view. We have supper in the hotel's restaurant. Another excellent fish chowder, very creamy. For mains, Vi has shrimps and scallops, but I opt for pork chops tonight, a little fished out.

Lulled to sleep by the rhythmic sound of breaking surf.

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Photos

Tablelands
Gros Morne NFLD

View of Trout River Bay
Trout River NFLD

Southeast Brook Falls
Gros Morne NFLD

Lobster Head Cove Lighthouse
Lobster Head Cove NFLD

Rocks at Lobster Head Cove
Lobster Head Cove NFLD

Sunset
Cow Head NFLD