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Europe » Italy » Liguria » Cinque Terre » Manarola September 18th 2023

After an appx 2 hour train ride from Florence, we arrive in Cinque Terre (pronounced Chink weh Tay reh). The name refers to 5 Villages that hug the rugged coast line as part of the Italian Riviera. Up until about 1990, the area was a relatively obscure tourist destination with a few visitors mainly from France, Germany and other European countries. When Rick Steves, the American travel writer, discovered it, the area became the 4th most popular travel destinations in Italy, behind Rome, Florence and Venice. In the early days prior to the “tourism takeover”, the main attraction in Cinque Terre was the Via Delle Amore, or ”walk of love”. The trail connected two of the villages, Manarola and Riomaggiore and when opened, it dramatically improved relationships between these once isolated communities. Young people, who rarely ... read more
RiomaggioreHarbour
On the boat tour
Manarola

Europe » Italy » Veneto » Venice September 17th 2023

We just arrived in Venice, but I want to catch up on our hike in the Dolomites. From Salzburg we took the train to Bolzano, the main town of the Alto Adige (if you're Italian) or Sudtirol (if you're Austrian). There's still a very strong German-speaking presence here, even though the area was grabbed by Italy after the First World War. On Monday we took a bus from Bolzano to Selva, a small town in the beautiful Val Gardena, and started our hike. At first it was a pleasant stroll up the gently climbing valley, enclosed on both sides by towering, jagged peaks. Before long the terrain became much steeper and we climbed up on stony trails to the first rifugio, Puez. It sits in a high meadow, just above the cliff over the valley. It's ... read more
Lynn on her way down a crumbling hillside
In the fog, just before the rain came

Europe » Italy » Tuscany » Cortona September 15th 2023

Our friends arrived around the same time at Villa Ivana on Saturday to begin our 7 day stay in the Cortona area. The 9 bedroom Villa is an historical property that is nestled on a hillside within minutes of the old town. It is very spacious and reasonably comfortable with outdoor pool and a large pergola covered patio. It was fortunate that the large facility allowed some space for isolation, although 3 out of the 5 couples ended up positive with Covid, some showing mild to no symptoms. For the first few days, our plans were somewhat restricted but eventually we were able to get out and enjoy some of the attractions in the area. Cortona is on the south east portion on Tuscany, close to the Umbria border. The old town’s origins can be traced ... read more
Outside of Villa Ivana
Small community of Osais
Relais Hotel

Europe » Italy » Lazio September 13th 2023

After a very relaxing and much needed day off in Foligno I set off for the campsite near Narni. I soon pick up signs for the Spoletto to Assisi cycleway and they lead me go a lovely canal side cycle path. I get to enjoy it for 40km or so before the inevitable climb. It's a very hot day, but thankfully there are plenty of trees provideing lots of shade. The temperature difference under the trees and in the sun is amazing. Trees are just brilliant. The climb peaked at 1,984 feet and was very steep in places. There were loads of white admiral butterflies sunning themselves on the road. The forest was silent save for some crickets and the rustle of dry leaves everytime a lizard scurried off. The winding descent to Terni was very ... read more
white admirals
Brimstone butterfly

Europe » Italy » Lombardy » Lake Como September 3rd 2023

Our 3 week Italy trip actually started with a Toronto-Zurich overnight AC flight. From the airport we took the train to Chur, a small town about 1 1/2 outside of Zurich, for an over night stay and to catch the Bernina Express the next day. This 4 hour rail passage through the Swiss Alps was an excellent way to shake off the jet lag and enjoy some striking scenery on the way to northern Italy. We rented an apartment in the small town of Varenna for the 3 days we were in Lake Como area. Varenna is one several small cobblestoned towns along the shores of the lake that are connected with frequent ferry service. Lake Como is one of Italy’s largest fresh water lake (Lake Garda is the largest). It sits at the base of ... read more
Bernina Express
Balbianello Villa in Lenno
Town of Bellagio in the distance.

Europe » Italy » Veneto » Verona September 2nd 2023

Romantic Verona and lake Garda -Piprey on wheel Romantic Italy 'Un bel di Vedremo' is a famous song of Madame Butterfly opera where the Japanese wife pines for her American navy husband to come back to her in Nagasaki. Imagine, watching a spectacular opera in a 1000-year-old arena which today seats 16,000 people; from where the mighty Romans once watched bloody sports! Such song, music, food and social life is inherent in Italian culture, making it stand out rather flamboyantly against the sober character of Northern Europe. Back to present world, all London airports had an airport traffic control failure. Hence, over 1900 flights were cancelled over 2 days. Fortunately, the backlog got cleared by the time my Lufthansa flight took off to Munich. From Munich to Verona it was Air Dolomite which was turbu... read more
River Adige
Tomatoes in farmer's market
Elaborate set of Japanese house with garden

Europe » Italy » Veneto » Belluno August 30th 2023

Leaving the Rifugio Nuvolau on my fifth day on the Alta Via 1, there was a choice of onward route - either backtracking downhill to the Rifugio Averau and contouring around the base of the mountain, or dropping straight down the southern face of the mountain on a Via Ferrata route. With a full pack on my back the former seemed to be the only smart choice. With the cable cars having not yet started running for the day, the walk down was both scenic and peaceful... until I reached the road crossing at Passo Giau to be confronted by hordes of day-trippers starting out on their own hikes. But the scrum was soon left behind as I continued on the south side of the road (which seemed to attract only a fraction of the people ... read more
Grassy Slopes and Angular Peaks
Stone Scrapheap
Intimidating Backdrop

Europe » Italy » Trentino Alto Adige » Brixen August 24th 2023

The Alta Via 1 is one of the most famous multi-day walks in Europe, threading its way south for over 120km through the Dolomites - a mountainous landscape renowned for its sharp limestone pinnacles, whose northern end lies in the province of South Tyrol (which, despite being ceded to Italy after the First World War, is still predominantly German-speaking - hence the dual place names). With a plethora of accommodation options along the way - from the usual mountain huts that I've come to know and love; to farmhouses offering beds in their haylofts; to campgrounds, hotels and bed & breakfasts down in the valleys - the only challenge is securing sufficient reservations to complete the trail. Thankfully I'd managed to do just that, though admittedly it had taken some flexibility on my part, as well ... read more
Off to a Stunning Start
Reward for Effort
Empty Pool

Europe » Italy » Basilicata » Matera August 21st 2023

The plan for today is to take a trip to the town of Matera which is around 80 kms inland from Monopoli. It seems to come up pretty regularly on lists of must-see places in Italy, so why then do they seem to have made it so hard to get to? Maybe the plan is to stop it getting overrun with tourists? If that’s the case why haven’t they tried something similar in places that are already overrun, like say Venice - surely it wouldn’t be that hard to blow up the only bridge and make people swim there. Anyway, back to the real world … My ever-reliable app that shows us how we can get from anywhere to anywhere else in the world tells me that I can get there on a bus …. in ... read more
Matera
Matera
 Chiesa di San Francisco d’Assisi, Matera

Europe » Italy » Apulia » Monopoli August 20th 2023

Today we have two very critical missions to complete. I’m feeling a bit desperate. If I don’t complete the first mission, I’m not sure Issy’s going to let me into bed tonight. The nearest laundromat‘s nearly a kilometre away in a non-tourist part of town. Issy also has some slightly soiled clothes, but as always seems to be the case mine outnumber hers by roughly ten to one. Hers don’t seem to smell nearly as much either. The laundromat‘s a very sophisticated automated arrangement. You put your clothes in one of the machines, dial up what you need on a screen on the other side of the room, insert some cash, and the machine magically whirrs into action. One gent turns up with only a credit card. I wonder where he’s going to sleep tonight. They ... read more




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