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Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Astypalea September 4th 2023

Issy and I opt for a rest day. No rest however for most of the Rembrandts; they head five kilometres or so along the steep and winding road around the bay to Paralia Agios Konstantinos. They’re taking the sensible approach; they’ve chartered a fleet of taxis for the trip. Most of them already think I’m a bit unhinged, so I think it might be better if I don't let it slip that I walked there a couple of days ago. We stir from our slumbers in the late afternoon just in time for another session of show and tell. Actually it was probably just me who stirred from a slumber … I don’t think there’s any chance that Issy nodded off; she’s been way too nervous at the prospect of showing off her masterpieces to the ... read more

Europe » Greece » Pelopennese » Vytina September 3rd 2023

We get up. We have breakfast. We walk. We arrive in a cute little village. We go out for evening meal. So far 4 out of 5 ticked off and here there are a few tavernas so the last on the list should not be too difficult. Big breakfast spread particularly considering we were the only guests. Far too much for us even taking into consideration the lunch we take. The host even supplied take away bags and still we hardly made a dint in the offerings. Then it’s on the trail. We re-walked the last 20 minutes of yesterday’s trail as the first 20 minutes of today’s. Quite frustrating but here necessary. Then it’s along the river for quite a while. Picturesque and quiet delightful really and as it is heavily forested it was cool ... read more
The other half. There are only 15 permanent residents in the village, we could have fed them all!
On the trail. In the forest. On a good track. Going slightly down hill.it’s Christmas not Fathers Day!
Much of today’s walk follows the stream.

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Astypalea September 3rd 2023

Today we’re catching a bus to the small seaside village of Maltezana which is about ten kilometres east of Livadi just past the so-called Narrows of Astypalea. Our fearless leader Diana tells us that the name comes from a Maltese connection, and Issy suddenly gets very excited. This subsides quite quickly however when it’s revealed that the connection is that Maltese pirates used to use the bay as a hideout as they went about looting and pillaging the island. We heard similar stories in Naxos last year, and I remember thinking at the time that Issy’s Maltese relatives had been strangely silent on that particular aspect of their island’s history. It’s a bit windy here, but there are a couple of respectable looking beaches with sunlounges and beach umbrellas. It looks like it’s a serious fishing ... read more
Maltezana
Maltezana
The artist at work, Maltezana

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Paros September 2nd 2023

 My time in Paros has come to an end. Paul dropped me at the ferry dock on his way to work this morning, so I'm just relaxing having breakfast at an outdoor cafe, as my ferry isn't til 10. A couple days ago, I walked again to Parikia, with a beach break along the way Then I took the bus up to Lefkes, which is a little mountain town witha beautiful view. I stopped for lunch there, and noticed someone else that was sitting on his own, so I invited him to join my table. He accepted, so we had a nice visit over lunch. He's a psychologist, is name is Nico, he's American, but Greek parents, so has come to Greece many times. We exchanged contact details in case there was a chance to meet ... read more
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Europe » Greece » Pelopennese » Dimitsana September 2nd 2023

Not really still in Dimitsana, although the first few photos are. We are currently in Elati, a village of only about 15 people (few more on the weekend) so it’s no surprise it doesn’t feature on maps and location entries. It’s cute but after 8 hours walk the last thing we wanted was another 600 metre climb to our homestay. Sampled a boar sausage last night. To absolutely no surprise it came with chips. Julie had the kebabs and pita bread and both were OK but nothing special. The tzatziki was good though, very creamy and plenty of garlic. The beer was really cold and even served in a cold glass so 2 out of 4 ain’t bad. Later went looking for baklava and coffee but couldn’t find any. Greece is in crisis! Breakfast in Dimitsana ... read more
Boar sausage.
The tzatziki was good.
Dimitsana from our accomodation.

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Astypalea September 2nd 2023

It seems the local transport mafia mightn’t be in need of help from their Sicilian associates after all. Our rude, creepy, ripping us off, and just plain not good at his job bus driver apparently decided overnight that he needed our custom after all. So what did he do? Well it seems he made a late night visit to our fearless leader Diana’s hotel room. She struggled to find a knife before answering the knock at the door in her PJs. But no, he wasn’t there to dispense some mafia-style justice. There were apparently lots of excuses made about language related misunderstandings, which wasn’t really washing with Diana - she's lived here for thirty years and speaks fluent Greek. Next up were some creepy unreciprocated hugs, and he then disappeared back off into the night again, ... read more
Chora and the Castle
The Rembrandts hard at work
Chora and the Castle

Europe » Greece » Pelopennese » Dimitsana September 1st 2023

Couple of food photos first. Our last night in Stemnista was back to the only restaurant in the town (surprise, surprise!) but not for a a whole grilled chicken-we Made that mistake last night. I’m not sure how they cut the chicken up but there must have been at least 20 portions! Some identifiable, some not so but all good. It was spanakopita and lamb cooked in lemon, served with the ubiquitous chips. Vegetables are very hard to come by here. There are virtually none on the menu except for tomatoes. Our accomodation has a great morning breakfast, most of which they were happy for us to take away. So a couple of s cheese and spinach rolls, a couple of egg and bacon bakes and a couple of sweet biscuits went with us. Still managed ... read more
Greek ‘Amstel’ and an ouzo.
Breakfast.
Official start. We’re walking.

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Astypalea September 1st 2023

Today we’ll be heading out on the water with a boat trip to some nearby islands. But first we have to run the gauntlet of the local transport mafia. Our fearless leader Diana’s been chartering a bus to get us around, but it seems all is not well with that arrangement. The bus driver is rude, creepy and a terrible driver, and it seems he’s also doing his best to rip us off. Diana wants to ditch him, but that’s easier said than done. We need him to take us and our several tons of luggage back to the port when we finally come to leave, so just telling him to go forth and multiply would not seem to be a particularly good strategy. Anyway, today we’re travelling to the port in taxis, five of them, ... read more
Kounoupa Island
Kounoupa Island
Kounoupa Island

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Astypalea August 31st 2023

I join a select few of the Rembrandts for a short bus ride up the hill where they’ll be spending the morning drawing windmills. It seems the pull of the beach has been a bit stronger than the pull of the paintbrush for the rest of the crew; they’ve all opted to stay put down in Livadi. The remnants of eight windmills are still sitting up here on the ridge below the Castle. I read that they’re believed to have been built in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, and the locals apparently used to bring their grain up here to have it milled into flour. They look almost identical to the mills on the ridge above Chora in Amorgos. The ones here in Astypalea were apparently able to spin horizontally to suit the wind direction; I ... read more
Astypalea port
Chora
Livadi

Europe » Greece August 30th 2023

I haven't had a good connection the last few days, so I'll just post for a few days all together. On Monday, I had an early morning (6:50am) flight from Athens to Paros. Elly offered me a lift to the airport, which was so kind. She said an hour in advance should be fine for a domestic flight. It ended up being just enough time! I didn't have a bag to check, but by the time I got a boarding pass, cleared security and got to the gate, the flight was starting to board. Paul was waiting for me at the airport in Paros. We worked together on a dive liveaboard 26 years ago in Egypt, and the last time I had seen him was 25 years ago, when I went to visit him in Bahamas. ... read more
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