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Published: September 1st 2023
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Couple of food photos first. Our last night in Stemnista was back to the only restaurant in the town (surprise, surprise!) but not for a a whole grilled chicken-we Made that mistake last night. I’m not sure how they cut the chicken up but there must have been at least 20 portions! Some identifiable, some not so but all good. It was spanakopita and lamb cooked in lemon, served with the ubiquitous chips. Vegetables are very hard to come by here. There are virtually none on the menu except for tomatoes. Our accomodation has a great morning breakfast, most of which they were happy for us to take away. So a couple of s cheese and spinach rolls, a couple of egg and bacon bakes and a couple of sweet biscuits went with us. Still managed good coffee and that plate of yogurt, honey, nuts and fruit.
And we are walking again. Distance wise pretty good but with some steep sections both up and down so we knew it would be a bit of a test. But it is good to be walking again. The monasteries here perched precariously on the cliff faces, the river and gorge, the villages, the
rows of olive trees somehow managing to exist in what looks like the most inhospitable of soils all add to a really good day’s walk. Much of the walk was accompanied by the sound of rushing, trickling, gushing, cascading, falling, moving water and I was surprised how much was on the trail. What did not surprise though were rocks. They are everywhere here. The rock strewn paths make for slow progress as you have to be super careful where you put your feet. Even in sections where the gradient was reasonable we were averaging little more than 2km per hour. Some sections were not rocky and they figure prominently because I was so pleased to see them.
The scenic highlights were the monasteries. They provide fancy dress as you can not enter in shorts, they give you coffee, water small biscuits and ‘Turkish’ delights and expect (or in one place ask) a donation. The monastery perched in the cliffs and caves I was prepared to donate but after that we did not enter the real church so I thought a donation wasn’t necessary. I know I live on the edge! Photos were not permitted in the cave place but
it was amazing. Building commenced in 1167 and I think their water and probably sewerage system is original although where they got PVC pipe from I’m not certain. Some of the photos show the pipe system. The walls were painted in that primitive fresco style that you see in Greek Orthodox Churches. Three main monasteries, the first perched in the cliffs was Prodoromos, the second the Old Filosofou (very, very old) and the final one (where we had lunch) the new Filosofou. The second one is difficult to see. There was a sign warning of danger but we went in anyway. It would have been better to have a trick sign saying there was a ticket booth up there charging tourists an entrance fee. Fascinating place but not one where we spent a long time. I have seen videos where tourists went right up to the old monastery but that was not to be today. The new one isn’t anything special although it has a special place in Greek history, having sheltered leaders of the independence movement. Stayed for lunch, then pushed on.
To the Powder Museum. Yes powder. The abundant water flow here provided power for powder. Gun
powder. As well as tannery workshops the water provided power to grind the ingredients for gun powder, and there were plenty of ingredients. Charcoal, sulphur, animal poo (for the nitrates)… but they could make 400 kg per day. Fascinating place but it did not photo well.
Than to Dimitsana. Not so small, at least 3 restaurants here and an ATM. But charming and very scenic. Perched up high (I think it’s the highest village in Greece) and full of views in all directions. Our accomodation is just as charming. Very tastefully converted old building with heaps of character but no shower curtain!
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