This morning we are in Nafplion, Greece, basically a port town. But it is the gateway to some ancient ruins with a fascinating story: Corinth and Mycenae. Our tour guide is Lalia, a no-nonsense woman with a deep knowledge of the history of the area. We board our coach and head out of town. The landscape is Greek as I remember it: dry, rolling hills, dotted with low plants, trees and shrubs, above which rocky mountain outcrops punctuate the sky. It's remarkable that, if you look carefully, virtually every mountain has some ancient ruins perched precariously on its summit. Our first stop is the Corinth Canal. It cuts across the 6.5 km isthmus that connects the Peloponnesian Peninsula from the Greek mainland. Constructed with the help of Hungarian engineers, it was completed in 1893. But it
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