With the sound of Rachel and me! Laughing, that is - we had such a great reunion. She met me at the train station and we trolled around Old Salzburg in the rain, eating and having coffee and talking a mile a minute. Zipping through the Austrian countryside via train was beautiful. There were low-hanging clouds and forests that are the stuff of fairytales. Coming into Salzburg I caught a glimspe of the mountains - Rach's "alpity alps" - real mountains, jagged and snow-capped and ancient-looking in the cloudy dusk. On Friday Rachel had class, so I explored the old city on my own, enjoying the beautiful (baroque) churches, squares and elaborate fountains. I particularly enjoyed the water spouting from the statue-horses' noses, with the clipclop of horse feet from the real horses, drawing carriages right
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