The last of Salzburg
October 15th 2005 I have now learned the full and true meaning of the phrase "cold sweat." On my last day in Salzburg I traveled to Werfen (Verfen) to see the largest "accessible" ice caves in the world. When they said accessible they didn't specify that this was no easy task. It being the beginning of autumn the caves closed early each day because it got darker and the caves were warmer than usual. I got there an
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