Blogs from Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, India, Asia


Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Khajuraho January 8th 2020

Leaving last night's restaurant where we breakfasted this morning, we passed a local art shop where an older man was sitting on the floor just inside the doorway working on his latest creation. We had browsed in several art shops over the past month and not bought anything, so decided to have another look. The man's nephew was there, who spoke excellent English, and we chatted as we browsed through the enormous amount of work for sale. We commented on the fact that there weren't many foreign tourists around, that we hadn't seen many at all in the past month. He couldn't speak for the rest of India but in Khajuraho tourist numbers were down by 70% this year, he told us. This was due to the collapse of a domestic airline, meaning less flights to ... read more
Karma Sutra Temples
The Western Group of Temples
The Karma Sutra Temples

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Khajuraho January 7th 2020

India's most titillating town, located in the Chhatarpur district, Madhya Pradesh, is famed for the erotic stone carvings that swathe the three groups of UNESCO heritage listed temples. The Western Group of temples, in particular, contains some stunning sculptures that together make up some of the finest temple art in the world. They were dedicated to two Indian religions, Hinduism and Jainism, suggesting a culture of acceptance and respect for differing religious traditions. In a space of about 20 square kilometres, 85 temples were built by successive Chandela rulers, but only 25 remain. The road trip between Orchha and Khajuraho was the worst we've had. The 170klm trip took four hours to complete, the first two hours being through constant rough and dusty diversions, once again past roadworks where no one was working and no heavy ... read more
Shop near the Jain Temples between Southern & Eastern Groups
Old Woman sitting at the Jain Temples
Vamana Temple - Circa 1050-1075AD

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Khajuraho August 25th 2018

After not sleeping on the overnight train from Jodhpur to Agra, it's fair to say that I was really not looking forward to taking another one. However, this one was lovely! I arrived at the train station, did the usual security thing, got on the train, made my bed and settled in for a night sharing a compartment of 6 beds with a family. The only downside was I wasn't sure whether the train stopped at Khajaraho or not: my ticket said I did, all the train apps I had downloaded said it didn't! Not having much choice but to chance it and see what happened, I settled in for a good nights sleep. Waking up 5 or so hours later ready to get off, I noticed we were stopped in the middle of the countryside ... read more

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Khajuraho January 13th 2017

Early start... Breakfast at 6 and on the way to the train station by 7:15. Taking the train to jhansi and then a bus for 5 hours to Kajuraho. Kapil tells us that people will offer to shine our shoes and fix our bags while waiting for the train and they did. Beggers, very disabled, one with elephantiasis, are regulars at this station. Guide said he's been seeing them for 12 years here and they make more than poor farmers do...Still sad to see. Train was decent...We had reserved seats. The trip was slow, even though this was a fast train.. Instead of 2 and a half, the trip took 4 hours. Biggest problem? The bathrooms..One look and I knew I'd be waiting until we got to our next destination! In total we traveled for about ... read more
Tuk-tuk's are decorated to welcome tourists at the Jhansi train station
Just another cow on the walkway in Orchha
Betwa River in Orchha. First river we've seen that is flowing and looks clean

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Khajuraho May 10th 2016

Having finally got the ticket from Mumbai to Satna after a week of trying, it was only a short 20 hour train journey. We got on the train at 9.30pm and we didn't arrive until after 5pm the next day! I won't be rushing to do it again. It wasn't too bad until power ran out on all our devices... We arrived in Satna, which is apparently not a common route for foreign tourists judging from the reaction we got when we walked out of the station. A group of tuk-tuk drivers or just random blokes...I'm not too sure...were stood shouting and asking where we wanted to go, laughing and all yelling various information on where to go etc. No one could speak a word of the Queens and the guide books weren't any help. Some ... read more

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Khajuraho February 19th 2016

It was the dawn of a fresh day and the auto rickshaw dumped us off at the tiny Orchha train station. We purchased two general tickets onward toward the small town of Khajuraho. Although the distance wasn't too far, it was slated to take about five and a half hours. Each ticket cost us only 20 rupees. We boarded the crowded train and since it was a public train, it was every man for himself type of deal. We stood with our bags for a while and then two gracious passengers offered us both their seats. I sat by an older bearded man and had a view of the window and the outside world. The train passed along from station to station, often stopping for quite some time, while people disembarked and boarded. The old man ... read more

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Khajuraho November 25th 2015

Khajuraho 25 November 2015 We drove 170 kms to Khajuraho. The road was better but narrow. As always there were a lot of villages dotted along the way and stayed at the Ramada. Khajuraho has a population of 24,000. It was a quieter town and we learned that tourists are still 60% less than pre-GFC. The most famous feature of the town is the erotic and romantic Kama Sutra Temples which is protected as world heritage monument. Its walls are covered in erotic carvings. The carvings show the life that was then, and of gods, goddesses, warriors, musicians, and real and mythological animals. Two elements that appear repeatedly - women and sex. Legend has it that Khajuraho was founded by the son of the moon god Chandra, who descended and saw a beautiful maiden as she ... read more
Khajuraho western side temples (6)
Khajuraho western side temples (5)
Khajuraho western side temples (4)

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Khajuraho October 7th 2015

Arrival into Deli India, I think no matter how you prepare yourself for India it's a confronting experience. Driving from the airport to our accommodation the realisation of not only have you arrived in Mystic India, but also a place were millions of Indians live below substandard conditions. Driving down streets that is packed with traffic that seems to be heading nowhere, horns beeping tuk tuks weaving in and out impatient drivers cram into 5 or 6 lanes on a 2 lane road. Also add the people walking, horse and carts and the sacred cows that wander the streets that stop the traffic. And their you have it by the time you arrive at your hotel your in shock and shown to the solitude of your room. "Your Sanctuary" Our hotel in the Defence Colony of ... read more

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Khajuraho August 26th 2013

Our overnight train from Varanasi was pleasant—we met two well-traveled English brothers and enjoyed their company. In addition to the English brothers, there also happened to be a large group of people speaking a Slavic language (we thought Russian). But not only were they speaking it—they started singing Russian folk songs while passing around what we could only assume was vodka. It was probably our most random experience in India (and that’s saying something)—a set each of American and English siblings listening to Russians cheerfully singing folk songs as we took a train across Uttar Pradesh into Madhya Pradesh. Once we arrived in Khajuraho at 6am, we attempted to negotiate a good price to our hotel by tuk-tuk. In retrospect, we should have stuck with the brothers, but they hadn’t yet booked a hotel, so they ... read more
Small Figures on Temple
Such Cool Buildings!
So Many Details

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Khajuraho May 26th 2013

Elisa is feeling a bit better, so last night we grabbed the train from Delhi over here to khajuraho. The train system ran pretty much on time and Im happy to report that India has been full of some excellent surprises. We were able to book sleepers, these are where you have three people on each wall, with six total in a fairly small space. I grabbed the highest bunk and fell into a light sleep, that is until the guy below me started ripping mega melt your face off heat seeker farts. I mean dude. For the sake of humanity, for the sake of Frickin enclosed places, keep yourself in check. I survived, but I seriously think that dude singed off half my nose hairs. khajuraho is a famous World Heritage site and is home ... read more
Tuk tuk!

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