Two-hour bus ride from Suzhou to Hanzhou through land that looks as if it’s been flooded recently, but which in reality is rice-paddies with occasional farmers standing thigh deep in the water. Older buildings are soul-less grey boxes with prison windows. The newly-emerging architecture is colourful, with arched windows, red tile roofs and small corner-points as an echo of ancient style. Some have a short spire with three shiny steel balls rising in progressivley smaller size. Decoration, or lightning rod? They look like something from Edison- or Tesla-era electrical science. Hanzhou, a city of about 7 million, is prosperous. The youth hostel is on West Lake, the city’s main attraction, and across the street are side-by-side Ferrari and Porsche dealerships. There are plenty of foreign cars, from Audi, Buick, Cadillac, Mercedes and Mistsubishi, to Peugeot, Toyota,
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