Since Crete was the main focus of my trip to lovely Greece, it's only fitting that Crete be the place I stretch my legs and find the pulse of this country of my ancestors. Chania It all went down in a place called Chania; we didn't spend every day there, but it was our homebase and the place where we got to be lazy. Chania is an old, old town. Inhabited by ancient Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Venetians, and Turks, it was also the capitol of the short-lived independent nation of Crete. Now it's a tourist place, open to anyone in the world with enough money for mediocre Greek food, plenty of booze, and some chintzy trinkets. We stayed on a quaint little street in Chania's Old Town: rows of medieval buildings rising up from
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