We just knew from the start that this was going to be a good trip. The taxi in from the airport is a Tesla Model S; a silent, all-electric, luxury limo. And our apartment is over an ice cream parlour! Huge walls and tall towers encircle the old city of Tallinn, it's like being in an open air museum. Large houses were built by German and Russian merchants in the 14th century. Each house has four floors - servants in the cellar; ground floor offices; first floor family apartment; then attics full of goods to be traded, with a hoist to pull them up straight from the street. There is a lot of history here. Danes, Swedes, Russians and Germans have all ruled; Estonia wasn't independent until 1919 and then only for 20 years. In 1939,
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