Page 11 of subman Travel Blog Posts


Europe September 15th 2016

15 September 2016, Thursday, Day 17, Povoa de Varzim to Esposende Hotel Suave Mar. 14.37 miles by Garmin 12.67 miles by Fitbit. Today it is overcast with a few 'blue breaks' in the sky to the east. Way far to the north, along the coast line, a headland with some buildings on it, appear and disappear in the mist. There is not a route for today in the Brierley book. But we follow the yellow arrows and the coastline Boardwalk north. The first part of the day is by the sea on the lovely boardwalks. We see the sea weed spread to dry before it is collected and chopped to spread onto the fields for fertilizer. Eventually we turn inland and spend a large part of the day walking through truck farms. They are spectacular. The ... read more
An overcast, misty start to the day, sea more rough
The ocean today as we start our walk
Plaque on harvesting seaweed

Europe » Portugal September 14th 2016

14 September 2016, day 16, Wednesday. From Porto to Povoa de Varzim. 19 miles. Hotel Axis Ver Mar Conference and Beach Hotel. We head out the door of the Carris Hotel in Porto, our eager band of five for Julian and Moira's first day and our 16th day. We have the steep walk up to the Sao Bento metro train station for the subway line that we will take to the coastal town of Matosinhos. The trains are packed as it is rush hour but there are individuals on the train platforms to answer questions. We get off at Mercado, the next-to-last stop as it is the nearest stop to the 'lifting bridge.' We rapidly climb the spiral staircase as we do not want to have to wait if the bridge is being lifted. We cross ... read more
Carris Hotelles - Porto
Train going back into Lisbon
Looking across River Leca

Europe September 13th 2016

12 & 13 September 2016 Porto And why is Porto special? The three of us have declared it to be our favorite Portugeuse city/town!! - incredible location on the Rio Douro (River of Gold) near the sea - home of port wine - wonderful mix of old and new in architecture, food and life style - one of most beautiful bookstores with Harry Potter connection - where we meet our Australian friends, Moira and Julian, who now join us on the Portugeuse Camino Our weather is holding and we enjoy walking up and down the city streets, including the old medieval quarter near the Se, (old cathedral.) Also, the city is known for its fabulous buildings with the tile azuelo scenes, both inside and out. We ride the Hop-On/Hop Off bus to get a good overview ... read more
Hop On - Hop Off Bus. Our chariot for tour of city
Church of Ildefonso
Casa da Musica - major concert hall space

Europe » Portugal September 11th 2016

Day 16, Grijo to Porto. At 0900, Sergio, our taxi driver with the very nice Mercedes Vito limousine, picked us up at Hotel to take us to the monastery in Grijo. He had his daughter, Rita, with him just as he had yesterday when he picked us up in Grijo to return to São Joao de Madeira. When he arrived we learned that he was also taking our bags on to our hotel in Porto. During the 35 minute ride he showed us photos of the hotel we will be staying in when we get to Porto. Another of my points of dissatisfaction with Follow the Camino is, if they had told us he was also picking up our bags we would have had them downstairs saving about 10 or more minutes as the elevator was ... read more
AS Hotei in Sao Joao de Madeira
Grijo Monastery
Statue on monastery grounds

Europe » Portugal » Northern » Sao Joao da Madeira September 10th 2016

10 September 2016, Day 15, São Joao de Madeira to Grijo. 19 km or 12 miles. This relatively short day allowed us to leave around 0810 and walk at a leisurely pace. After self service breakfast at Hotel AS on the central commercial plaza we got right on the Camino track through town. At the Oliva factories we took photos of the two statues: one of a shoemaker and another of hat making. Our morning was spent wandering the mix of suburbs and industrial areas as the route undulated up and down almost all on pavement. As we stopped to take some photos we saw a pilgrim behind us. When he caught up I learned he was Kevin from Cairns, Australia. We enjoyed our day walking with him. We learned his wife is with a group ... read more
Hotel AS front door on corner of a large building
The obelisk in commercial center in front of hotel
The shoemaker statue

Europe September 9th 2016

9 September 2016, Day 14, Albergaria a Velha to São Joao de Madeira, or from the town of the old Albergue (pilgrims house) to the town of St. John of Madeira. This is an 18 mile walk, but the temperature at 0705 when Jo and I start is a cool 54 degrees. We had a sandwich for breakfast and a beautiful tomato, thanks to Anna, the very lovely proprietor of Casa de Alameda, our hotel. This hotel had been built by her great grandfather. Her mother was the cook and her father helped serve. The restaurant has old wine barrels made of French oak - the hallmark of wine quality, lining the sides of the dining room, with her grandfather's name embossed on them. Faustis So we walked anticipating a restaurant in Albergaria a Nova, the ... read more
Park in Albergaria-a-Velha
A large sign saying "Albergaria-a-Velha" waits for you!
Interesting structure as we leave Albergaria-a-Velha

Europe » Portugal » Central » Albergaria-a-Velha September 8th 2016

Day 13, Agueda to Albergaria a Velha. Today is just a little over 17 kilometers or 10 miles, and breakfast is not until 0730 so we sleep in and take our bags to reception before going up to the roof top bar for breakfast. The Hotel Conde de Agueda has been nice. They sent us to a restaurant last night with great ambiance and good food. And they have been helpful with every request. Agueda is a beautiful little town of 12,000, and very festive. Yesterday we walked down several streets with umbrellas of every color of the rainbow strung above the street between the buildings. Lots of colorful painted objects like electric boxes and very neat. The very modern Tourist office is across the street from the very old municipal building. There is a large ... read more
Mural on wall across from hotel
From our hotel, a beautiful church on the hill
Flowers in the median

Europe » Portugal » Central » Agueda September 7th 2016

7 September, Wednesday, day 12, Mealhada to Agueda. 26 kilometers. Internet service at Quinta Dos Tres Pinheiros was not available in the room and the lobby was dark and locked, so Karen and I sat on the steps to work on blogs. The Internet from the lobby was strong enough on the front steps for us. The doors opened at 0630 for the bread delivery and shortly after tour groups assembled for breakfast. One group of at least 40 people were from France. We worked on photos and titles and got a blog ready to review and saved before going in to have our breakfast. At 5 minutes until 8 we had our bags in the lobby and we're ready to start today's walk. Today promises to be about 16 miles but the temperatures will have ... read more
Jo and Karen with some modern sculpture
Walking through eucalyptus forest early in the morning
Jo and Karen enjoying the cool mist

Europe » Portugal » Central » Coimbra September 5th 2016

5 September 2016, Monday, Rest day and exploring Coimbra. Still walked 4.62 miles. Karen here. Today's blog is long and deals with the wonderful university with its stunning library, reflections on books, keeping in shape when your university is at the top of a hill, and the old cathedral with few Biblical scenes to be found. Our rest day in the lovely university town of Coimbra will be spent traveling up the hill to the university - and then down the hill. These students must be in very good shape!! We saunter back to the main plaza that welcomes travelers crossing the Ponte Santa Clara Bridge. Harlan finds a narrow, straight up alley way and off we go. We arrive, huffing and puffing, in a square, that fronts the entry portal into the original palace grounds, ... read more
Art alley examples
A display in art alley
The beautiful main area of town

Europe » Portugal » Central » Coimbra September 4th 2016

Sunday, 4 September 2016, Condeixa-a-Nova to Coimbra, day 10 Up and Down, Up and down 25739 steps 85 stairs 11.24 miles. Garmin GPS 12.39 miles As we are leaving the pousada, we see a potting wheel and paints for children to use in making ceramic pieces. see photos. This pousada, our home for a night, started life as a 14thc. palace. At the beginning of the 19th c. it was an inn and entertained royalty and nobility from many European nations. In 1993 it was purchased and became part of the network of pousadas of Portugal. These historical inns are similar to the network of buildings with like backgrounds in Spain that are called paradors. We start the day in the company of the two women from California. It is a beautiful, early morning. We pass ... read more
Sunset from pousada
Pottery painting for 'small fry'
Martha from California




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