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Published: September 22nd 2016
9 September 2016, Day 14, Albergaria a Velha to São Joao de Madeira, or from the town of the old Albergue (pilgrims house) to the town of St. John of Madeira.
This is an 18 mile walk, but the temperature at 0705 when Jo and I start is a cool 54 degrees. We had a sandwich for breakfast and a beautiful tomato, thanks to Anna, the very lovely proprietor of Casa de Alameda, our hotel. This hotel had been built by her great grandfather. Her mother was the cook and her father helped serve. The restaurant has old wine barrels made of French oak - the hallmark of wine quality, lining the sides of the dining room, with her grandfather's name embossed on them. Faustis
So we walked anticipating a restaurant in Albergaria a Nova, the new Albergue, but it was closed just before 0800. As were the next several. Finally, after 13 kilometers of various terrain, ups and downs, we found an open restaurant for our sandwiches and some much needed coffee.
Two men were playing pool and smoking as we ate. The cell phone of one of them rang which he promptly silenced. It must have
been his wife.
We met one pilgrim from England going to Fatima. We have met very few pilgrims going to Santiago, 6 walking and 3 on bikes. But we have seen more going to Fatima.
In Oliveira de Azemeis we stopped to view Igreja (church) Matriz de Oliveira de Azemeis, São Miguel. The church is noted in journals as far back as 922. The camara, town hall, with its interesting facade, has lovely symmetry. Leaving the town we find Cafe Santiago and have a bowl of soup.
The highlight of the day was walking along an old Roman road and crossing the river on an old Roman bridge. Hopefully the photos will tell the rest of the day.
We arrived about 1600. Karen arrived earlier at AS Hotel that has no record of our reservation but did have two rooms. Sent message to Follow the Camino and they confirmed it was the hotel's error. Hotel acknowledged their mistake and arranged for our dinner at nearby restaurant. Baked cod and salad with scrumptious cheesecake.
Kevin from Australia was dining there also. You will read about him tomorrow. He said he saw our yummy dessert and he
would have had one but we had the last three. Actually, he said he was too stuffed from his beef platter dinner to have dessert.
Karen here. Jo and Harlan are off early. I go down and walk over to the bus station and have a coffee and determine that one goes out to where the buses arrive to find out about tickets. I find an office and I show the lady a piece of paper upon which Anna has written my transportation needs! The lady and I have a 'lingual dance' but I wind up thinking the bus, heading for my destination, does not leave until 11:30. I return to the residential and make myself comfortable in the lobby and get out my IPad. Some time later Anna arrives and insists I return to the room, rest, and write upstairs in comfort. I come down in time to walk over to the bus station but first Anna wants to write a note to the bus driver to make sure I purchase the right ticket and make the transfer in the right place. All at once she announces that she is driving me to the bus station. As I
am protesting she gets the car and drives me over, speaks to the lady I have spoken with before, verifies that which I thought was the procedure is actually the case, gives me a big hug and then returns home! Another pilgrim angel to add to our growing choir!
I am to check the incoming buses and wait until they have changed the sign to their new destination to see if it is the one I want. Buses to Oliveira de Azemeis are not frequent and I continually go up and down the busy stops for incoming buses. An elderly man, who has apparently been watching me, shakes his head when I am studying one destination. In a few minutes he points to a bus way at the end that I have thought I have already checked. He himself gets on and I check the destination and see that only 'Azemeis' appears on the signage. How easily I almost missed the correct bus as I was concentrating on 'Oliveira!'
The driver looks at Anna's slip and indicates the price. Imagine, for under $5.00 I will arrive at my destination!
I arrive
at the town where I must change buses. I alight and the driver says something to me and I sense he is saying, "Stay here!" I do so and shortly he returns with the ticket agent in tow. This gentleman speaks English and verifies where I am going, tells me to wait in the lobby and he will let me know when to go out to catch the bus. I am certainly making the journey with the help of many? In about fifteen minutes he comes to get to me and chats as we wait for the bus to arrive. The station is in the heart of the town, very busy and must be a nightmare for drivers. First they must maneuver up a narrow street, pass the entrance to the station, and then slowly back-up into a small area of bus stalls.
I arrive in Sao Joao with no idea where to head for the hotel. The city is also much larger than I had anticipated. I buy a Magnum ice cream - my answer in any crisis, and ask the counter man directions when I pay for it. He has no idea but tells me, in Spanish,
to go outside, go up the hill, turn left, and get a cab. I really do not have much faith in those directions! I stop in a day spa and inquire and she walks outside and does a lot of hand waving. I start off but take a left street too soon. I am at a round-a-bout with many cars zooming around. To complicate matters businesses are closing for siesta. After a number of blocks I ask directions again and I determine the hotel is on American Plaza with an obelisk - can't be missed. The words a traveler never wants to hear!!
I arrive, deal with the 'no room at the inn' situation and settle into an older, very large suite overlooking the plaza which is like Grand Central station. It will be nice not to be packing up in the morning.
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