Strange to be back in smelly, polluted, vibrant, coulourful, friendly, overwhelming but most of all HOT Kathamandu after breathing the thin, clear, almost whiskey like air of the mountains. We reached the Tibet Guest House after a long hot journey and fell into our rooms, exclaiming at the beds, the showers, the relative cleanliness of everything. We all had a bath and a shower each. The next day Si and I went for massages and facials. Quite an experience. Not only did the woman who massaged me have the fingers like iron nails and it was quite the most painful massage I have ever endured, but the really embarrassing thing was that when I stood up from the couch, the oil where I had been lying was grimy and black. I blanched and looked at
... read more