Each step tore at his calf muscles and he swore he could feel bones grinding in his knees. Two hours of downhill trekking in beautiful dry season Laos jungle near Paksong would sweat-drench most, and Gus was no different. The trek began smoothly, nice and gently, but as the downhill became dirtier, the dirt became slipperier, and the track became thinner, Gus and most of his six international associates were all maximizing the grip on the width of their shoes as well as their hands. The three Lao guides, fifty kilograms each, spaced themselves at front, middle and back of the line of trekkers, probably to keep on an eye on the differing fitness and confidence levels of the group, or maybe they just wanted to not perspire at all. Gus found the trek became visually
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