Rain is the common theme since I left Vientiane at 5am two days ago. On the way to the bus station it pelted down so hard I thought the tuk-tuk driver had parked us underneath a waterfall. The sound ofthe rain hitting the bus station's tin roof was so loud I had to shout at the guy behind the ticket counter for him to hear where I wanted to go. The seven hour bus trip to That Khaek went surprisingly quickly. I sat next to a very nice Lao woman who gave me gum and tried to share her baguette and dried chicken with me. She insisted on speaking to me in Lao once she knew I could speak the language a little bit; mostly it was beyond me and even though I kept apologizing for not understanding what
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