Blogs from Orchha, Madhya Pradesh, India, Asia


Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Orchha January 6th 2020

On a seasonal island in the middle of the River Betwa, surrounded by a battlement wall, stands Orchha Fort, which was built in the 16th century. The fort consists of several connected buildings erected at different times, the most noteworthy of which is the Raja Mahal. The island is separated from the mainland by a multi arched stone bridge which we walked over this morning. The water isn't flowing in this section of the river, it lies as still as a millpond, tinged green with algae and full of the usual litter. Admittance to the fort cost R250 ($5) and we spent a couple of hours exploring the ruins and admiring the wall and ceiling frescos in some of the rooms in Raja Mahal, many of them still in excellent condition. We climbed up and down ... read more
Orchha Fort
The Cenotaphs
The Cenotaphs

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Orchha January 4th 2020

Orchha, meaning ‘Hidden Place’, is a town in Madhya Pradesh on the banks of the Betwa River. This medieval town seems to have frozen in time, its palaces and temples still retaining their original grandeur. Orchha had the distinction of being the capital of one of the largest and most powerful kingdoms of Central India. At heart, Orchha is nothing but a tiny, agricultural village that shouldn't really be of much interest to anyone, but it was blessed by history. For nearly 300 years it was one of the most important urban areas in this part of India. Orchha owes its glories to the Bundela clan of Rajputs, who set up their headquarters here in 1531, though Orchha reached its zenith under Bir Singh Deo who reigned from 1605 to 1627. He was on good terms ... read more
Gulal Powder for Sale
Boy Selling Axe Heads in the Market
Someone's Front Door

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Orchha February 17th 2016

The alarm went off bright and early, and I got up knowing that we had a train to catch. The only problem was that I felt like total shit. I was lightheaded, weak, and something intestinal was definitely brewing. I dragged myself from bed and just decided that I had to roll with the punches. We took a rickshaw to the station and then waited a little bit for the train to arrive. Luckily, we had reserved some sleeper spots for this leg of the journey. I climbed up to mine and fell asleep straight away. When I awoke a few hours later, I sat up and felt very sweaty. I climbed down to sit next to Bev and she noticed I was pale. I went to the carriage latrine and squatted down to see what ... read more
Rama Temple
Sadhu with Trident

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Orchha August 22nd 2015

Day 34 - after effects of the fall, a day off Oh what a night! The party continued whilst I slept. I kept waking up intermittently. Every now and then, I popped outside to see how the party was progressing! It was in full swing! I was still in bed. The party moved away from the tent front to the platform over to the left! I popped out, then went back to bed. I am walking as if I am completely drunk, but slightly better than last time. Back to bed. The next time I get up for a drink, venture out to evaluate my situation! They are all sat on the wall with a river view, taking pictures of the sunrise. I joined in, took a couple of photos, then wobbled straight back to bed. ... read more

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Orchha August 21st 2015

Day 33 - Move to Orchha Anna and I have the early morning run well sorted! Anna always needs more time to get herself sorted, so always gets up half an hour earlier than me. Then I follow on after her. By the time to go, we always seem to be organised at exactly the same time, and ready to go! I am happy to be sharing her space. This morning we left the hotel at 7.15 to get the train to Orchha. We are expecting a two and a half hour journey this morning. I am treading on new territory, as from today, so really looking forward to see what there is to see! Anu has informed us that Orchha is a contrast to the other busy towns that we have been to so far, ... read more

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Orchha March 7th 2015

I woke up at 0930 after a good 9 hours sleep. My earplugs were still intact, and I'd only briefly heard Molly Brown once. It was quite light in the tent though so I don't know if it was this or the snoring that stirred me but I soon fell back to sleep and didn't even hear my room buddy shower and leave. I felt so refreshed, and hopefully that may have been the last of the Jetlag on its way out. I managed to catch the end of the breakfast buffet, where only Raghu was dining so I joined him and was offered a cup of Masala tea. He told me it was very gingery which made me think of Reuben and I resolved to call it a Reuben brew from now. It was really ... read more
Colours for Holi
Raja Mahal
Cow drinking from the public water pump!

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Orchha March 6th 2015

I had THE BEST sleep ever, and was up and out for 7am as we were getting the train at 8pm. Initially the train seemed like it was on time as it was pulling into the station, but then Raghu said it would be 3 hours late due to engine failure! We were told to expect this from Indian trains, so it was a case of stand and wait. Ten minutes later we were hurrying to get on, it was only stopping for 5 minutes so with bags as well you have to move fast. The first lot of carriages whizzed by, and it was almost like an overcrowded prison on wheels. There were arms sticking out of barred windows, and it looked crammed to the rafters. Our carriage arrived and thankfully it was the better ... read more
Waiting for the train
Monkey on the tracks
Holi in Orchha

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Orchha January 13th 2015

After a couple amazing days in Agra it was time to wind down a little and just absorb it all. It was such a great place to get to and see the Taj!!! Just the fact that we got to see it and get right up close to it after reading about it and seeing pictures of it in magazines, it was beyond anything I could possible try to write down in words. There are certain moments or certain things that you see if life that you just can't put into words. It's just one of those 'Ya had to be there' moments. The best part was we got free time to walk around and just soak it all in and sit and try to comprehend that you are in a place that is really old ... read more
Living history at the hotel entrance
Inside the temple complex
Amazing carvings

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Orchha April 28th 2014

Hi everyone, I'm a day late updating my blog as I have been on Orchha today. We travelled from Agra by train and mini bus. We left the hotel at 7.10am and went to the station where we said goodbye tour driver and his helper and boarded the 8am ish train. I have to say that my first experience of Indian trains is ver favourable! We all had seats with plenty of leg room. The seats were arranged in a 3 and 2 combination with a much wider isle than UK trains and we had reclining seats. and finally we were served breakfast with tea/coffee, hot meal similar to aeroplane food, I had the omelette which included a few peas and some fries, two,pieces of bread and butter, a bottle of water and a drink made ... read more

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Orchha March 22nd 2014

Orchha March 16th 2014 “Rivers are roads that walk and carry where you want to go” Blaise Pascal “..To be on your own With no direction home Like a complete unknown Like a rolling stone” Bob Dylan The river Betwa flows lazily through Orchha in Madhya Pradesh, dropping polished stones on its banks. While taking a sunrise bath, I chance upon and pick up a small stone, place it back, pick it up again, feel it feeling me, how it fits so snug and right somehow in my hand, its cool and smooth surface against my skin; and decide that here is the perfect travel companion for making my morning chai. Beb had given me this simple idea while travelling together in Gujarat weeks earlier, but we had not found quite the right rock. It's so ... read more
Spice Rock
Travel Kitchen

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