What could have induced Buddha to settle in a spot as unprepossessing as what was to become Bodh Gaya is not easy to fathom. Even 2,500 years ago, it couldn't have been less dry, dusty, windswept in the cold season, and scorching hot before the arrival of the soothing monsoon. The landscape is relentlessly flat, and water is hard to come by. Barely two months after the close of the rainy season, the Falgu River, which marks the eastern boundary of the town, seems to have vanished. A quarter of a mile wide, it is no more than a vast expanse of yellowish sand with clumps of grass growing here and there and a trickle of silty water a few feet wide meandering hesitantly down the middle. To Hindus and Buddhists, this is a sacred river,
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