Rickshaw to Nirvana – Gaya
November 11th 2017 Train number 12371, the Jaisalmer Express, pulls into Gaya Junction. It is 45 minutes late. Not bad for the first leg of a 1,400–mile run from Kolkota to the east to the Pakistan border to the west.
The first local I run into on the platform is a cow: light brown, bony, young short-horned. It ambles along aimlessly, looking bemused, as if wondering what it’s doing here and what possessed it t
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