Welcome to Bihar, the poorest and most troublesome state in India. So it should have been like living in Moss Side for the past few weeks then, not likely! The people here are amongst some of the friendliest I've met. Yes they have their troubles, and the poverty level is on full show, but it's definitely not as bad as people say. Bodhgaya, a small town of 30,000 people becomes a town of 30,000 locals and 30,000 tourists and pilgrims every January. The place is awash with Tibetan refugees, Buddhist monks and foreigners getting a slice of the action. In a way it's more hustle and bustle than Varanasi, and I never expected it to be like it has been. Streets lined with 'beggars' from other villages. Some genuine, many not so genuine. Old ladies sat
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