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Asia » China » Xinjiang » Kashgar August 3rd 2013

I am still in Kashgar. I hope to cross into Kyrgyzstan on August 5. I will ride to Sary Tash and then head south to enter Tajikistan through the Pamir Highway. I haven’t met anyone who has done it or is planning on doing it this way. Chinese cyclists stay in China and foreign cyclists all seem to come from the West into China. I expect to be going uphill (up to 4000m again) for a couple of days. I know the view is going to be amazing with lots of 7000-meter high peaks but I expect to suffer physically with the heat and the sharp incline. I should probably also get ready for a bumpy road… Can it be worse that the beautiful but difficult 216 Dirt Road outside Urumuqi? I wanted to cross into ... read more
on the way to Karakul
Karakul Lake, Xinjiang
We're going up there!

Asia » China » Xinjiang » Kashgar August 3rd 2013

From Kashgar to Irkeshtam, at the border with Kyrgyzstan It’s been over 2 months since I last wrote about my on-going bike trip. I am now back in China for the October Holiday after visiting Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan in August and September. It was hard to get on line in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan and then I was with my parents in Kyrgyzstan and wanted to take advantage of every minute with them so I didn’t spend much time on line (Sorry Becky!). Lots of things have happened since the end of July when I was in Kashgar. I am going to try to retrace my steps and share my impressions on 2 beautiful months across Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. On my last days in Kashgar, Xinjiang Province, I spent a lot of time on the ... read more
sur la route
Le vieux Kashgar
Sur le toit de ma Guesthouse a Kashgar

Asia » China » Xinjiang » Kashgar August 1st 2013

J’ai beaucoup aimé la ville de Kashgar. J’ai passé la plupart de mon temps dans la vieille ville a coté de la grande mosquée, a déguster (en cachette car c’est le ramadan en ce moment) des pains a la viande de mouton, des pastèques et melons sucrés, et a observer les Ouighours dans leur train-train quotidien. Les hommes portent un petit chapeau carré, brodé, sur le haut de la tète. Les hommes plus âgés ont pour la plupart une longue barbe blanche et ils ont tous les yeux perçants. Les femmes portent des robes et foulards ultra colorés. A Kashgar en été, les jours sont très longs. Le soleil se lève vers 8h et se couche après 22h : longues journées pour faire le ramadan. On dirait que le vieux quartier a été plus ou moins ... read more
Kashgar old city
in the old city
in the old city

Asia » China » Xinjiang » Kashgar August 1st 2013

Here are some photos of the livestock market in the outskirts of Kashgar. It’s a famous market in the area and it attracts many shepherds, farmers, cooks and tourists. I spent a couple of hours wandering around from the area where they discuss the price of cows, to the next where Uyghur men check out the sheep’s ears, backs and buttholes… and then there is the donkey area… While the Uyghur were looking at the animals, I must admit I was people watching. As you can see I took more pictures of the people selling and buying livestock than of the animals. There is something fascinating about these men’s faces, the beards, the hats, the wrinkles and the body gestures. When I look at them, I realize how far I am from home. Funny how a ... read more
Uyghur man at the livestock market
good sheep?
negotiating

Asia » China » Xinjiang » Aksu July 28th 2013

I am in Kashi (Kashgar)! Kashi is the last big town on my way out of China. From here people can go on to Pakistan, Tajikistan or Kyrgyzstan. Kashgar is famous for being the heart of the Uyghur community and for its old quarter around a big mosque and a very colorful Muslim market. I have been dreaming of this place for years, imagining what it would be like to wander around the old Uyghur town. I imagined planning my trip through Central Asia at the terrace of a tea house while snacking on raisins and dates… And here I am finally! And it’s been quite a ride to get here… Urumuqi – Kuerle – Kuqa – Akesu - Kashgar = 1500km. It took me 16 days to get to Kashgar. I crossed Xinjiang Province, 1/6th ... read more
on the way
no shade for a break
outside Akesu

Asia » China » Xinjiang » Kuqa July 28th 2013

Petit poste rapide sur Kuche (ou KuQa) sur la route qui me mène a Kashgar. La première journée a été un peu difficile avec un gros vent de coté qui me poussait vers les camions et les voitures sur la voie express. Et puis il y a eu cette tempête de sable pendant plus d’une heure où je ne voyais pas plus loin que 10 mètres devant moi. Le sable s’est incrusté de partout dans mon cou et même au milieu des dents… J’ai longé les montagnes à ma droite et l’immensité du désert sur ma gauche. Je me suis engouffré dans un petit tunnel sous l’autoroute afin de passer la nuit a l’abris des regards, mais vers minuit le vent était tellement fort (amplifié sous le tunnel) que j’ai du déménager entre les voies de ... read more
my road
great dinner at Kuqa!
great life!

Asia » China » Xinjiang » Korla July 21st 2013

I woke up at 6am but as I opened the tent and realized the sun was still behind the mountains, I decided to stay in bed a bit longer… I really wanted to take many pictures of the gorge, the blue river running down below and the green mountains. It wasn’t my intention to just cycle through it very fast. Time was not an issue. This year ahead of me, I DO HAVE TIME! So eventually after eating breakfast and packing I was about ready at 10am… The sun had just flipped above the peaks and the colors of the gorge already looked stunning (my favorite English word!). I didn’t really have time to warm up, I was already going up a steep hill. I met some construction workers a bit farther down and they told ... read more
Follow me on Road 216!
Tian Shan mountains
banana smile!!

Asia » China » Xinjiang » Urumqi July 21st 2013

I could have stayed longer in Urumuqi eating amazing sweet Uyghur pastries, devouring more meat dishes, strolling through the Uyghur area a bit more, taking more pictures of the lively streets and enjoying the comfort of Becky’s home… But Becky had to go back to work in Beijing and I had to get back on the road. And what a road! To go south, I had 2 choices: I could either take the smooth road through Turpan (expressway) or what looked like the shorter way through the mountains on a smaller road. Because we had already visited Turpan, I chose the road through the Tian Shan Mountains. Becky’s Mom had warned me it would go up and down and the riding would probably be difficult (like many people from the city, she has never taken this ... read more
Entering the Tian Shan
Road 216
after a few hours of riding I met these gentlemen from Urumuqi

Asia » China » Xinjiang » Urumqi July 17th 2013

I arrived in Urumuqi very early on July 1 and Becky met me at the train station. No need to say how great it felt to see her smile again and hold her hand after a month on the road. I often try to imagine how different this journey would be if we were traveling together, both riding a bike. Riding a bicycle through the mountains and the desert has been tough, challenging, exhausting both physically and mentally. Could she keep up? Will we travel this way together someday? The big step for me in Urumuqi was to meet Becky’s Mom. I think it went well and we talked a lot from the very first day. She is a nice and caring lady who spoiled us with great food of all kinds. She baked bread for ... read more
Becky and her Mom
Grand Bazaar
Uyghur neighborhood

Asia » China » Xinjiang » Turpan July 17th 2013

I believe there are 3 places that stand out in Xinjiang province in terms of popularity. The first one is naturally Urumuqi because it’s the capital of the province and it’s also the largest and most developed city in this huge province. The second one is Kashgar because of its location in the far west of Xinjiang. It’s the gateway to Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan or Pakistan and it’s the heart of the Uyghur community and culture. Finally the 3rdplace must be Turpan, a famous oasis covered in green grapes where tourists come for a day trip from Urumuqi to enjoy big fat raisins and some sweet wine. Becky’s friend, Jiao Lu, had some business to attend in Turpan and she offered to drive us there so that we could visit the vineyards and the other sites while ... read more
oh yeah! good life!
cute
dry hills around the oasis




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