Blogs from Oceania

The Jawoyn people, who historically inhabit the Stone Country around Katherine in the Northern Territory, believe that a rainbow serpent named Borong carved a great gorge through the heart of their land. Then from the west came a dragon-like creature named Nabilil, who travelled through the gorge before camping high up on the plateau above. While Nabilil was sleeping, Walarrk the Cave Bat speared him, and in the process his dilly bag full of water was pierced, spilling out over the land and filling the gorge. At the entrance to the gorge Nabilil had heard the call of the cicada ("nit nit nit-nit") and named the place Nitmiluk, meaning 'Cicada Country'. My parents had brought me to Nitmiluk NP and taken me on a boat trip through the lower sections of Katherine Gorge when I was ... read more

FJ Holden’s Café was an interesting stop. Owned by Francis & Jan Holden, they have cleverly used their initials and surname to create a quaint little café filled with car memorabilia, naturally with the Holden car featuring. There were cabinets of model cars, signed flags and posters from well known Holden racing drivers, as well as a couple of antique juke boxes. It was very interesting to look around as we enjoyed our morning tea. Afterwards we quickly stopped at the local SPAR supermarket and butchers to replenish our provisions. Talk about country service at the supermarket – we were in there briefly yesterday and I was looking for some English Muffins. There were none available but they were expecting their weekly delivery from Townsville on Wednesday morning. We casually mentioned that we would call back ... read more

Staying in the caravan park overflow area located at the Richmond Racecourse. It is a couple of kms out of the town, but extremely quiet with the added benefits of power and water and a very modern amenities block. Despite being called a Turf Club the only turf was in front of the grandstand – the track itself was all dirt and dust. On the wall of the Moonrock Café (within the Tourist Info Centre) there hangs a painting of 4 local men (Bunny Walsh, Ken Ryan, Tom Wilcox and Jimmy McGuire). It is titled “The Seat of Knowledge” as all four gentlemen would sit there every day, watching the world go by and offering advice to one and all. It is of no real significance – just one of those images that appealed. Richmond is ... read more

Alongside the creek at JuliaCreekthere is a spacious but dusty free camp, just a short walk into the town. Like all the free/freedom camps we have stayed in this holiday it was very busy. We first checked in for four nights but because of increasing temperatures (into the low 30’s) we have decided to move on after 2 nights to Richmond where we can have access to water and power and therefore air con. (Our generator has given up the ghost, so parks or reserves with power might be our go to for the next week or so.) In the meantime, we enjoyed a very good morning coffee at the local bakery – and once again it was well patronised by many nomads – before a quick stroll up the main street, popping into one or ... read more

Our plan for the next two nights was to camp at the ruins of Mary Kathleen township, but after speaking with one of the checkout ladies at the Mt Isa Coles supermarket we changed our mind and drove instead to the Clem Walton campground overlooking Corella Dam. It was a very short drive of just 60km heading east to this pretty and hugely popular free camp. The camp straddles both side of the dam and in the area we have chosen there are about 20 vans all nestled at the base of some rocky outcrops. The scenery as we were driving along today across the Tropic of Capricorn was vastly different to that which we have encountered over the past few weeks. It was quite hilly to mountainous with very dense bushland. Red termite mounds are ... read more