Blogs from Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, North America - page 3

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North America » Canada » Nova Scotia » Halifax June 30th 2017

Port Hawkesbury, Nova Scotia, 30 juin J'étais venu à Halifax il y a plus d'un quart de siècle et je dois avouer que la capitale néo-écossaise ne m'avait pas laissé une forte impression. Outre quelques bâtiments anciens dans le port, la ville n'a pas de signature particulière (si ce n'est le pont Macdonald qui enjambe le bras de mer) et c'est véritablement le site naturel qui est ici la grande vedette. Deuxième plus grand port naturel de la planète, le havre d'Halifax offre une large baie (Bedford basin) bien protégée des assauts de l'océan Atlantique. Fondée en 1749 par les Britanniques, tout juste après la prise de la forteresse française de Louisbourg au Cap-Breton, Halifax est rapidement devenue un lieu stratégique et la présence de la marine canadienne en témoigne encore aujourd'hui. Au milieu du dix-neuvième ... read more
Halifax
Halifax
Halifax

North America » Canada » Nova Scotia » Halifax June 28th 2017

Halifax, Nova-Scotia, 28 juin Tout au long de ces côtes déchiquetées, parsemées ça et là de quelques plages de sable blanc, l'histoire mouvementée de l'implantation des européens dans ces contrées maritimes nous interpelle. Il y eut bien sûr les premiers habitants, notamment les Micmacs, mais le paysage actuel laisse davantage paraître la présence coloniale britannique. Il faut toutefois rappeler l'âpre bataille de survivance des Acadiens installés dans le sud de la Nouvelle-Écosse depuis l'époque de Port-Royal, car de petites communautés persistent et signent toujours avec cet accent si charmant et j'ai retrouvé les traces de ces Cayens jusqu'au Cap Sable, tout au bout de la pointe sud de la province. Ces premiers arrivants européens furent suivis au milieu du dix-huitième siècle par des colons recrutés en Suisse et en Allemagne qui fondèrent la pittoresque Lunenburg en ... read more
Cape Sable
Shelburne
Shelburne

North America » Canada » Nova Scotia » Halifax June 27th 2017

I had always wanted to visit Canada so when, on Thursday 22 June, we arrived in Nova Scotia and we were greeted by pleasant, friendly, smiling and very helpful folk, I knew I had made the right decision. What a contrast this place is after New York! On the flight, I got to sit all by myself. That is, I was in a single seat near a window – I don’t recall that every happening to me before. For a good while before we landed in Halifax, I could see a swathe of endless green below me. A forest covered the land which seemed to go on forever. Where the green ended, there was water – lakes and sea, Mother Nature in all her glory! The city of Halifax is not exactly beautiful, in my opinion, ... read more
Canada is celebrating 150 years since federation
The new public library is a fabulous example of good modern architecture and has its own green roof.
Atmospheric sunset

North America » Canada » Nova Scotia » Halifax June 27th 2017

With a little sadness, we woke up to our last day, travelling day. A number of people in the hotel dining room were from the conference, which gave us a few more moments to reminisce and to exchange details for keeping in touch. People who were at the conference in Bermuda five years ago (the other end of the North America station in the 18 century) are lobbying to have another one there in three years. Patrick says this is his last, but he seems to want to be persuaded. After checking out and storing our bags, Deirdre and I strolled out into the warm sun. Our destination was the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, but by the time we reached it and checked out the exhibits list, we decided that being outside on such a ... read more
Big Red Chair
Halifax harbour

North America » Canada » Nova Scotia » Halifax June 26th 2017

The first lecture this morning was given by our now friend, Peter Sabor, on Jane Austen's reputation in the US during the fifty years after her death. I was surprised to learn that her novels were popular and appeared in several editions. The second lecture was about Fanny Palmer Austen, who married Jane’s brother Charles, in Bermuda, and who lived in Halifax during the years he was stationed here. She wrote often to her own sister and was also accepted by Jane as a sister, which meant that her portrayal of Halifax was known to all the family. My objective for our free time was to check-out the salt cod supply at Superstore. Yesterday on the way out of town, I saw a Superstore, not particularly far from our hotel. When Ann and I were in ... read more
McNabs Island lighthouse
Shipyard bell 1759
William Hall, sailor hero in Lucknow

North America » Canada » Nova Scotia » Halifax June 25th 2017

Even though this was Sunday, we had three lectures this morning. The first was by Cheryl Kinney, a doctor and specialist in Jane Austen. She explored the mystery about Jane Austen’s final, unsuccessfully treated ailment, usually thought to be Huntington’s disease. Sarah Emsley, a local writer on Jane Austen, proposed that Anne Elliott in Persuasion had more ambition than usually credited to her, because she was masked by her adherence to social norms. By popular demand and dressed in the correct admiral’s uniform, Patrick Stokes repeated his knowledgeable study of the navy in the 1800s, concluding with hi... read more
Mural to remind of home
Patrick Stokes
Admiralty House, built in early 1880s

North America » Canada » Nova Scotia » Halifax June 24th 2017

We were on the bus promptly at 8:30 to go to a wine tasting in the Annapolis Valley. Fog covered the trees in the distance, helping us appreciate our escape into the countryside. After a slight detour to the wrong place, we stepped out into a warm breeze wafting over the vineyard of Pete Luckett. Deservedly, he is a local celebrity. His funny, spirited greeting had us all quickly smiling. Pete Luckett started as a “barrow boy” in Nottingham, England, i.e., he sold fruits and vegetables from a cart. He moved up to a shop and eventually sold that to work his way around the world. Settling in New Brunswick, he started a fruit and vegetable shop and ended with a chain of high-end grocery stores, named Pete’s. (We have sho... read more
Pete Luckett, Vintner
Dike and sluice from 1680
Evangeline by the Memorial Church

North America » Canada » Nova Scotia » Halifax June 23rd 2017

Our morning began with another lecture by John Mullan, this time entitled “Persuasion and Self-delusion”. Although his talks are entertaining and well referenced, I did not totally agree with him. I thought some of the characters were not self-delusional but trying to talk themselves into accepting difficult circumstances. Something to ponder, which means the conference is indeed a success. Later in the morning, we boarded the bus to go to Government House for a reception with the Lieutenant Governor, JJ Grant. After a brief tour of the well-proportioned Georgian home, we were ushered into the ballroom, set up with rows of chairs. The aide-de-camp welcomed us, and then announced that the Lieutenant Governor was unavoidab... read more
Uniacke House
Uniacke House doorstop
Uniacke whale oil lamp

North America » Canada » Nova Scotia » Halifax June 22nd 2017

This morning my mental elastic was pulled taut as our first speaker tried valiantly to associate Jane Austen with Canada, even beyond the obvious employment for a time of her brothers in Halifax. This is why I decided not to do a PhD in literature – obscurantism. The second presentation was much more gruesome and macabrely funny: a medical doctor revealed that men in the navy died most often of disease (mucky water, yellow fever, literally rotten living conditions) and that anyone injured was lucky if he didn’t suffer an almost certainly fatal amputation. With several hours free, Deirdre and I took the opportunity to walk in the Public Gardens across the street from the hotel. These Victorian formal gardens are justifiably a proud fixture for Haligonians. Trees shaded many of the pathways around and across ... read more
Multi-coloured Victorians
Provincial Legislative Library
The Round Church

North America » Canada » Nova Scotia » Halifax June 21st 2017

Our morning started earlier today, as the first two conference lectures started at 8:45. The first thoroughly described the posting of Jane Austen’s brothers, url=https://austenprose.com/2009/10/09/jane-austen%E2%80%99s-siblings-%E2%80%93-charles-john-austen-1779-1852/Charles and Francis, in Halifax for several years. The Halifax harbour was the northern station for the Atlantic fleet, and the southern station was Bermuda. During their separate successful naval careers, they would spend the summers in Halifax and the winters in Bermuda, patrolling for French and American ships that were breaking the blockade during the Napoleonic Wars and beyond. The second lecture was an unexpectedly hilarious exploration of time in ... read more
Punctilious and enthusiastic guide
WW1 trench model
St Paul's Church 1750




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