Considering the capital cities that surround it - Jerusalem to the west, Damascus to the north, Beirut and Cairo just a short flight away - it’s hard to get all fired up about Amman. This town is like the Nick Nolte of the Middle East: impossible to love or hate, largely forgettable, but able to make a good showing now and then. You don’t easily take to the dusty downtown, to the rows of apartment blocks that rise across its endless hills (as many as nineteen, according to some estimates). But you can carve out a comfortable little niche haggling for fruit and puffing nargileh - or, as I’ve found, shopping for bootleg DVDs in the shops on Al-Amir Mohamed Street, where 300, Shooter, or the new season of 24 can be had for all
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