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Europe » Russia » Volga » Samara June 14th 2010

Yesterday I came from my one-day trip to Samara, one of Russian cities on the Volga River. It takes 8 hours by train there and back, I had seats, 371 roubles one way, very cheap. I have already said that I hate people who make noise in trains after the midnight, and this time I enjoyed noise during the whole night so much I could even sleep! It was horrible, the young men were shouting like stupid all night long. I suppose they were idiots. Of course, there’s that crap about being young and joyful, and stuff, but if I were not a humble guy I think I would beat someone that night. There must be peace after the midnight, so that people could sleep. I came to Samara exhausted and sleepy and angry. Samara Train ... read more
The Mayakovskaya Street
Temple in the Name of Georgy Pobedonosets
A Monument of the Square of Fame

Europe » Russia » Volga » Samara May 21st 2010

Samara donc, ou j'ai trouve un CS qui etudie l'histoire de France et le francais, ce qui suffit a m'en faire tomber amoureux. Bon il s'avere qu'en pratique il parle francais comme moi russe, mais c'est excellent pour nos progres a tous les deux, et en plus il fait un cafe piment/cannelle a se damner :o) Il m'emmene faire seance tenante une nocturne visite de la ville ; on se balade un peu le long de la Volga (oui promis apres j'arrete avec ce fleuve, c'est la derniere ville ou je la croise...normalement :p ) et decouvre nuitamment une architecture composite (une eglise gothique, un batiment style Art Nouveau, de vieilles maisons en bois, le bunker de Staline qui l'avait fait construire au cas ou et le theatre d'art dramatique) en devisant gaiement. Le week-end arrivant ... read more
Sunset over the embanqment
Samara theatre
Holy light

Europe » Russia » Volga April 27th 2010

Un peu de bus pour descendre (5 heures, une paille), mais comme les chiens ont definitivement decide que leur espece serait exterminee par mes soins (sachant qu'on prend un bus contenant maximum 12 personnes, quelle est la probabilite pour qu'un des autres voyageurs ait un chien, que ce chien pisse dans le bus sans que personne ne le voie et que pendant les multiples virages ce divin liquide vienne atterrir sur mon sac ? Faible ? Bah je croyais aussi :p ) on finit par preferer le stop. Arrivee a Saransk le soir, papotage avec notre hotesse Irina et le lendemain decouverte de la culture mordve. Qui n'existe pas vraiment en tant que telle : ce terme regroupe en fait les Erzya (Эрзя) et les Mokcha (Мокша), ces deux peuples etant les plus anciens habitants connus ... read more
Building corridor view
Mordovia flag
The only museum providing slippers =)

Europe » Russia » Volga » Yoshkar-Ola April 23rd 2010

N'hesitez pas a me dire si ces jeux de mots ne valant pas plus de quelques kopecks vous fatiguent, mes tentatives ne sont pas toujours au meilleur niveau mais je pense que meme les trois secondes de reflexion que ca vous occasionne evitent de tomber dans une trop morne routine. Voici donc la fiere Yoshkar-Ola (Йошкар-Ола), capitale de la republique de Mari-El, ou nous esperons trouver quelques coutumes locales, car la religion traditionnelle marie est une des plus anciennes d'Europe, et une des rares a avoir survecu a la christianisation, qui on l'oublie trop souvent s'est faite aux depens des fois ancestrales. Arrives par le bus deux copines de notre CS du jour nos accueillent a la descente, et nous pilotent en gazouillant russe et un petit peu anglais aussi. On passe la soiree a se ... read more
Mari-El flag on the left, Y-O one on the right
Tourist one...
Aliona smiling in front of the city hall

Europe » Russia » Volga » Kazan April 20th 2010

Le pays tatar aura sans doute notre visite un peu plus approfondie dans un mois, d'ici la contentons-nous d'explorer sa capitale. A peine sortis de la gare la mosquee Qolsharif, sertie dans son joyau kremlinois (Kremlin ou Кремлин dans le texte veut dire forteresse, ca n'est donc pas l'apanage de Moscou, toute ville de bonne taille en a une) nous saute aux yeux, du coup on file la visiter. Toute de blanc et de turquoise vetue, l'interieur s'avere aerien et a dominante bleue egalement, et bien que non visitable avec un guide on la savoure donc. Un tir a l'arbalete plus tard on file deambuler dans la grande rue, et apres quelque sustentation c'est une CS americaine qui me fait le plaisir d'un toit pour la nuit. Le lendemain encore un bon bout de nos semelles ... read more
Qolsharif mosque
Odd one
Street view

Europe » Russia » Volga » Nizhny Novgorod April 14th 2010

C'est la tres grande forme du jeu de mots, comme vos prunelles que je devine deja chatoyantes peuvent le constater, et nous voici donc dans la ville qui donne son nom a l'Област (oblast), qui signifie region. Le decoupage administratif de la Russie est a l'image de sa langue : fruit de siecles d'histoire, et bien complexe tant pour le profane que pour le non-specialiste. Il y a les republiques, les regions autonomes et les oblast, qui existent eux-memes en 3 parfums (classique, autonome et fraise-pistache). Mais je m'egare, voici donc Ни́жний Но́вгород (Nizhny Novgorod, qui sera NN dans tout cet article), ville prestigieuse bordant la Volga et riche d'histoire, puisqu'elle a tour a tour ete residence princiere, forteresse inexpugnable (elle a repousse les assauts tatars venus des fameuses...steppes tatares merci, je vois qu'il y en ... read more
NN oldest house
Tchkalov square and a Kremlin tower
Along the Kremlin

Europe » Russia » Volga » Nizhny Novgorod August 6th 2009

This was in summer of 2009. I was going to Saint Petersburg for the Global Gathering party, and it so happened that I did not manage to buy train tickets for the usual route, Yanaul-Moscow-Petersburg, so I devised a modified route: Yanaul-Kazan-Nizhny Novgorod-Moscow-Petersburg. There was only 30 minutes between the train from Yanaul and that to Nizhny Novgorod. Fortunately, there were no delays. When I came to Nizhny Novgorod, I bought a map - this is the first thing I usually do when I arrive to a place. By the way, geography was one of my favourite subjects at school. To see the sights, I had very little time - four or five hours, and now I will speak of a thing not so pleasant to myself… I always try to do my best using maps, ... read more
Temple of John the Forerunner
Temple of John the Forerunner
The Kremlin

Europe » Russia » Volga » Ufa August 6th 2009

When the Soviet empire collapsed in the early nineties it was heralded in the west. The thought of centrally mandated collectivism makes a capitalist's blood run cold and many (if not most) Americans view, or were taught to view this shift as a great victory in the name of the human spirit. The communists doubtlesssly had innumerable failings but, as western popular media triumphed through "kill-a-commie" films and the end of the "Cold War" was heralded, many Russians suffered and starved. The loss of a way of life that was a full two generations thick proved stifling and left many without the means to survive. To us, these casualties never had a human face, untill now. Things have doubtlesly stabalized these days but many older Russians still have warm regards for the good old days when ... read more
Gift of freshly picked cherries
Friendly Armenians share their vodka and watermelon with us at the Asia-Europe border
Russian bus stop

Europe » Russia » Volga June 29th 2009

Moscow - Volgograd 21hours... Train journey seem to be a lot of fun thought the heat at day reaching 36 to 38c can be a little overwhelming. People are friendly and gladly share they portions between one another. Speaking no russian makes it only that much more fun and entertaining... it is really travelling with the odrinary average russian across trully amazing time speared regions. Volgograd (ex-Stalingrad) Imagine a city new of the 60's with virtually nothing old. The Stalinist environment and structure of the town makes it a strange sight. Its is not as ugly as one could imagine as evidently a lot of effort has be put into reforming this emblem of Russian power and them winning that battle. the avenues are broad and the town is spread on 70 km which is difficult ... read more

Europe » Russia » Volga » Kazan March 31st 2009

March 27th, 2009 - 2201 hrs I’m sitting at a two-person table in a rusty boxcar on the way to Kazan. Outside my window, I see couples and families embrace in the cold Russian night. For this country it is a common sight wherever you go but tonight these hugs have an added intensity. There’s a small scent of iron in the air that carries through the terminal and before the doorway to your train. With passport and ticket in hand the only thing that stands between me and Tartarstan is a ten hour ride across snowy planes. Kazan is the capital of a semi-autonomous republic within the Russian federation. Its about as far as you can go before hitting the Urals and subsequent Siberian. This gives the city an added feeling of East meets West, ... read more
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