Budapest is one of the largest cities in the European Union, having a 2016 population of 1.75 million people. The site was originally settled by the Celts, and later by the Romans, who named the city Aquincum. The name derives from two settlements, Buda, on the high side of the river where the castle complex is located, and Pest, on the lower side of the river. The city has been conquered by Mongols, Turks and in 1711 became part of the Habsburg dynasty. but retained independence. As we were driven from the airport to our accommodation, I was looking out the window at drab Soviet style buildings and run down infrastructure, and was questioning whether Budapest was in fact one of Europe’s most beautiful cities. As we entered the central part of the city, however, the
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