No-one from either city will thank me for saying it, but Zagreb is a bit like Belgrade. No eyes are going to pop out of their sockets at the array of architecture, which here is largely grey and plastered in graffiti. Historic sights are few, but Zagreb is home to some great cafes, clubs and bars which more than made up for it. The train journey from Mostar was a draining 13 hours long. Fortunately we had paid extra to go first class, and had a compartment to ourselves for more or less the entire journey. We were tired and hungry on our arrival at Zagreb station, where we were taken to our apartment by Miroslav, whose voice sounded amusingly similar to Arold Schwarzenegger's. I was slightly peturbed that there was no actual bedroom, just two
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