Sunday, March 13 San Juan Sacatapequez is interesting, a kind thing to say about any unlovely town. Seen from the window of a moving bus, the morning mist just burned away, the flower market is its obvious centrepiece. All the extravagant beauties - the lilies, chrysanthemums, gladiolas, Brazilian torches, sunflowers, heliconia - spill out of wicker baskets or are crammed into bins, a riot of colour. The only sight more colourful is the women themselves, selling their wares from makeshift stalls or while seated on plastic camping stools. Along the arcade, trestle tables display red and green chilis, hearts of palm, sliced mangoes and maize. An iguana stew bubbles inside a turquoise crockpot. From a painted doorway, an old woman, her wrinkled lips clamped around a lollipop, peeks her head out. Each shack shares a wall
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