Day 10 Kalai-Kum (Qal'ai Khumb) to 3rd Village Jizeu/Gizeiv, Bartang Valley Driving Distance- 200km Sleeping altitude 2500m Up early and repack from my big backpack into my small backpack for an overnighter in a home stay in Jizeu/Gizeiv Village in the Bartang Valley. The courtyard by day is even prettier than last night. Breakfast arrives- a rice porridge with salty milk, cherries, bread, biscuits, sweets and condensed milk and apricot tea. I love this stuff! M and B rock down 20 mins later and we're completely out of there by 0830. Back up the lane way and a quick "Orbit" Supermarket stop to buy sweets and chewing gum to share. We resume on the bumpy, dusty road across the river from Afghanistan, Gigantic looming hills and cliff faces. Afghanistan alternates between mountains/landslides and green oases with ... read more

Day 8 Tuesday 28 August A low key day after the beauty and exertions of the last few. Sleep well despite city noises and big trucks driving by through the night. The open window kept the temperature down. We drive back towards Dushanbe stopping at a roadside resto for breakfast. Breakfast is eggs, delicious, but more amazing is the bread with fresh cream. Really, really good. Back through the tunnel of death by 0930, we survive again. Stop at the beekeeper man. Love his colourful hives, buy M and J a jar of honey as a gift, I don't love honey as much as I love the hives and the bees. As we arrive into the outskirts of Dushanbe I ask M if he can help me get a SIM, he's happy to help but the ... read more

Day 6 26 August Chukurak Lake (2350m) to Kulikalon Lake (2980m). High point for day 3190 m- elevation gain 840m, loss 210 m Slept really well in between waking for the donkey calling then walking for Max (the dog)- consensus is that there was probably a wolf around. By final morning wake up Max is gone. I'm up at 0527, no one else is, it's very peaceful, and for the first time in days I feel like food. Pack up my tent- try to do it surreptitiously but there is no escape the helping hands. I will have to try pack up even earlier tomorrow. Pack my pack while Mohammed is whipping up b/f- he's made porridge with condensed milk and apples- damn good. We also have bread and jam and instant coffee. Excellent start. At ... read more

Day 4 Collection time is 0900, awake really early, still have cramps and diarrhea. Do the whole Azithromycin, Buscopan, Gastrostop thing. Feel v apprehensive given how yuck I feel. Having said that, I still get completely packed up- my backpack plus a bag to leave at Marians, in record time. Manage an egg with some bread and jam. Buscopan, my friend... By the time Mohammed, my guide, arrives I am feeling ok- 5/10 ok. Today is going to be light and mostly driving so fingers crossed it'll be ok. But first, a trip to the supermarket. Mohammed is 23 (same age as my youngest son). The driver, Joomart, probably 30's. The jeep, green and sturdy, not sure. Saidali (owner of travel company) calls- there has been a change of plan, Mohammed will be my guide for ... read more

Day 2 Dushanbe Fast Facts Population 679 400 Elevation 800m Settlement- 5th century BC Dushanbe evolved in 1929 with establishment of a railway, aka Stalinabad- capital of new Soviet Tajik republic 1950's back to Dushanbe (which means Monday), Tajik immigrants from Uzbekistan, German POW's and Russian exiles 1990's civil war with the fall of the Soviet Union 2002 peace prevails, city transforms Wake up after not enough sleep with a cold, unfortunate timing but I can deal with it... My room in the daylight- big, white, spacious, old Persian rugs, big puffy curtains (hmm). white linen, navy privacy curtain into small ante room and bathroom, all very spotless, very, very spotless. I love it (with the exception of the puffy curtains), art on the walls-local eurasian, r... read more