56, in love with the world. Fell in love with Nepal. Then Iran. Now? ....
Where to next?

2016 Bibbulmun Track End to End 1050km in my home state. UPDATE 13/4/19- IT"S FINISHED!!!!!!!!!

2017- Well, that'd be the USA again then Mongolia.
Update- Mongolia is to be shelved for yet another year. Instead there is a wedding to attend in Edinburgh- but first, The West Highland Way to be walked.

2018 - Tajikistan is calling

Update- Tajikistan indeed did call, as did Kyrgyzstan. It was amazing - a 23 day 2500 km Fann Mountains/Pamir Highway Odyssey then amazing trekking in the Tien Shan. Blog hasn't even started!

2019 - Pakistan is in the pipeline

Update- Pakistan was incredible- K2/Gondogoro La Trek and the Hunza/Upper Hunza. Also took in Xinjiang Province through the Khunjerab Pass. The blog???? OMG, I have no idea when I can write it up (see above re Tajikistan).

2020- Georgia and Armenia- solo trekking plus looking at all those amazing old churches and trying the Georgian cuisine

Update- COVID happened, Georgia and Armenia on hold (along with every other overseas destination as per Australian Govt rules, did another 1050 km End to End on the Bibbulmun Track over 49 days but starting south and finishing north this time. Also got to go to Christmas Island as it is technically Western Australia).

2021- COVID continues to decimate. Can travel within Australia so its an End To End of The Larapinta Trail in the Northern Territory in July

"They do say that there is a thing called mountain exhilaration, that when in high places a strange elation seizes one; akin to ecstasy or madness."
-Han Suyin

Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Denmark July 28th 2020

Day 5 Denmark to William Bay 20km Breakfast prep in the Caravan parks' camp kitchen is unhurried, luckily, as it takes about 15 minutes to work out how to get the induction stove turned on for my egg boiling fiesta. Very nice to have a toaster and kettle too although I don't miss these things at all when I'm on the trail. Farewell Geoff under a bright blue sky at 9am, the trail head is directly opposite the caravan park, zero chance of getting lost. The first 6.5 kms for the day is spent exiting Denmark through a series of bush tracks, footpaths, wooden bridges and bitumen roads. Quite a few very nice houses on display. A couple of friendly waves. It's surprising to me how much I actually enjoyed this bit- last time walking north ... read more
Denmark to Nornalup Rail Trail
The Idyllic Wislon Inlet

Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Denmark July 27th 2020

Day 4 West Cape Howe to Denmark via Nullaki 27.1km Treated to a very pretty sky leaving WCH. I'm on a mission today as Geoff is going to meet me somewhere near Pelican Point to provide a ride into Denmark. Having a scheduled meeting always adds a little bit of stress to a days hiking, especially with our track record of getting lost, having no signal, not actually talking about the same place to meet despite both thinking it is the same place, etc, etc, etc. I also hate making time commitments as I tend not to plan how long 17km will take me to walk, to remedy this I generally give a time adding about 2 hours more than I calculate my speed to be- removes the angst... a bit. The trail from WCH to ... read more
Beautiful Time to Leave
Major Gravel Road
Inland Views

Oceania » Australia » Western Australia July 26th 2020

Day 3 Torbay to West Cape Howe 16.5 km Superb day of hiking. Left at 08:30 under beautiful overcast skies and had stellar coastal views pretty much the whole day. It was a day of mini highlights. First little highlight was sitting on a bench seat watching the view and being visited by a bandicoot! Not sure if it was the Torbay hut bandicoot or another one completely, like the Torbay bandicoot, this one was also very friendly (as in used to scavenging hiker muesli bar crumbs). Next little (big) highlight was the whale pod casually swimming close to the shore. AND... not just in one spot but in 3 different spots during the day, including off the coast visible from the bench seat at the WCH hut. Very exciting. Sat up on that seat for ... read more
Nankeen Kestrel
Love a granite slab

Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Torbay July 25th 2020

Day 2 Mutton Bird to Torbay 12.4km What a sunrise! Short km day planned for 3 main reasons 7km of beach walking - not a huge deal but sometimes the sand is sinky and the gradient steep which makes it more laborious, and Torbay Inlet possibly impassable and requiring an approximately 18 km detour walk around I really want to have lunch at the coffee shop at Cosy Corner which is a short diversion from the track (didn't make it last time as it was at the beginning of the day and still closed!) So... up early but it was 07:35 before I left camp. This was good timing for a sunrise, breakfast and first morning packup, not going be so good for the tides with high tide at the Torbay Inlet. Took an hour of ... read more
Sun Still Rising
Views to Peak Head

Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Albany July 24th 2020

Day 1... Albany to Mutton Bird via Sandpatch 24.6km Albany to Sandpatch 12.5 km Sandpatch to Mutton Bird 12.1km After a good nights sleep (that's how the sentence should start, but it was actually not a great nights sleep- too much going on in my head- like waking up, last minute nerves, etc) we descended the creaky carpeted wooden stairs of the Albany Foreshore Guesthouse in Albany for breaky. The guesthouse was good, it was quiet, quirky, spacious and somewhere with a sense of history and bonus points for being next to a coffee shop and directly across the road from the Southern Terminus Bibb Track trail head. Very convenient. Rate for 2 in Room 1 (large room with ensuite) including cooked breakfast was advertised at $140 but we were offered a direct booking discount of ... read more
Sun Protection Engaged
Tiny Bridge
Frenchmans Bay

Oceania » Australia » Western Australia July 24th 2020

The plan to do another end to end was born out of being restricted to travelling within the state and having 8 weeks of long service and annual leave approved. Having done an E2E in 2016 north to south I always knew I'd do a south to north at some stage, just not quite this soon. Given that I had previous experience to fall back on it was pretty easy to get this one planned. I followed the same basic principles as it generally all worked well last time. My main areas of preparation were; coming up with an itinerary (gotta love the spreadsheet), working out and producing food for 56 days (the spreadsheet gets an extra tab), deciding what to pack (yes, another tab), and training. Life had other plans though so things evolved a ... read more
But wait- there was the prep
Geoff’s truck and my boxes
State of my nose before starting

Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Augusta December 29th 2019

As was the case last year on enforced holidays over the Xmas break I needed to find somewhere to go for a multi-day hike, but where? I looked at a lot of places overseas (prohibitively expensive for just a week) and then over east- Kangaroo Island, Great Ocean Way or anything at all in Tassie, but travelling east was also really, really expensive (Perth to Hobart was about $1200 return!!!!). Then there were widespread fires across almost the entire east coast so it was definitely out. So, resigned to the fact that I would self implode, I got very lucky - a weather window of opportunity opened up for doing the Cape to Cape again- highest temp for the week was predicted to be 27C - bearable. Once again it only took a day or so ... read more
Sign In Ledger
After The Rain

Asia » Pakistan » Northern Areas » Gilgit-Baltistan August 24th 2019

Day 25 Sleeping in Rama Cool view from the hotel, we're packed and ready early. Too early for breakfast it seems. We and every other guest sit and wait very patiently for some action. And sit. And wait. It's not memorable but it's no big deal. Really looking forward to this day- the plan is to drive to Deosai National Park, up to a lofty altitude of 4114 m. It covers an area of about 3,000 km 2. It's the second highest plateau in the world after Changtang Tibetan Plateau (on the list). Whilst it's snow bound from November through May we are getting to experience autumn through the pass- (NOTE- spring is meant to be spectacular with the plateau covered in wildflowers and migrating butterflies). So off we go, once again traversing now sort of ... read more
Driving Through Deosai
Cafe and Shop
Owner of the shop

Asia » Pakistan » Northern Areas » Skardu August 23rd 2019

Day 24 Sleeping in Skardu via Machulo ( 2230m or maybe 2310m depending on your info source) Karim is a late starter. Breakfast isn't until after 0800. We are not alone- there are 3 other tourists (American lawyers as it turns out- we bump into them a few more times in the next 2 days). Breakfast is very appealing- juices, yoghurt, milk, cereal, bircher muslei, fruit, stewed fruit, preserves, eggs, those weird little hotdog sausages, Pakistani vege curry, chappati, Hunza bread. Lots of tea, lots of coffee. I stick to the stuff I've missed- the yoghurt, stewed fruit, muslei, toast and preserves. Mary goes Pakistani, she likes cold savoury stuff even at home- she'll eat cold leftover veges for breakfast. Enough mundane detail. Time to tour the palace. We engage a palace guide who gives us ... read more
Palace View
Historical Ledger in Museum
Carved Door

Asia » Pakistan » Northern Areas » Gilgit-Baltistan August 22nd 2019

Day 23 Sleeping in Khaplu (2601m) Tour 2- North Pakistan Adventure is to commence today. I email conversed with a few companies but ultimately went with Iman Rahim from Snow Leopard Tours in Melbourne. We went back and forth to eventually come up with an itinerary and costing that we were happy with. Bottom line- private tour for 2 for 14 days with guide, driver, all meals (bar lunch), decent car and all transport, all entry fees and accommodation for USD $1235 each. This would cover Skardu-Khaplu-Machulo Village-Deosai National Park-Rama Lake-Fairy Meadow Trek-Gilgit-Hunza-Karimabad- Ganesh Village-Hopper valley-Gulmit-Ghulkin Glacier Trek- Borith Lake-Passu-Shimshal Village-Sost -border crossing into China (Tashkurgan) .... phew! Iman was easy to deal with, we were on almost the same time zone, all of the correspondence was professional and detailed and it was easy to make ... read more
Military Hospital
Garden At Snowland Guesthouse

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