Kelprigrim1

July 4th - the walk into Santiago I wake up many times during the night - too excited - finally get out of bed - I take a morning shower - the only time I have done so on the trip. Morning showers are not allowed in the Albergues and severely frowned upon in the hostels - we pilgrims shower at night - if at all. Today is different though - I need to be at my best for my final stage - I even comb my beard. I pack up my back pack and get dressed in my quick dry Icebreaker t shirt, quick dry SAXX underwear (the perfect hiking underwear- special compartment stopped chaffing), quick dry North Face shorts and Mund all natural fabric socks. All over overpriced but well worth it - I ... read more

July 2nd - Castaneda to Salceda I get up at 7 am pack up and head down to the bar - have breakfast with the two American sister- in-laws - a cclg and huge chocolate croissant - very tasty. I walk slowly today - my feet are starting to act up again. The walking weather is perfect - cool, sunny with a nice breeze. We walk today on natural pathways - what else - with nice shade much of which is provided by groves of eucalyptus - their tell-tale acorn like seeds all over the path - their smell permeates the air. There are also periodic steep climbs with three shallow river valleys in between - more cardio and foot work. I stop at a few bars along the way and eat a nectarine and two ... read more

June 29 - Sarria to Portomarin I had my best night sleep yet. I woke up at 7 and pack up and leave. I really like this part of the walk except the crowds are now massive. To get a "Compostela" certificate pilgrims only have to walk the last 100k / people on horse or bike 200 k. Bus loads of people interested in walking the last 100k arrive every day. The paths are now teaming with tour groups, families and other groups fundraising for various charities - the walk is now commercial and very crowded. The backpacks on the newest pilgrims are the size of small school bags, the pilgrims themselves wearing haute couture colour coordinated hiking gear and professionally coifed hair. Some of the younger women look like they could be runway models. Tour ... read more

June 27 - O'Cebreiro to Triacastela I was half right about the girls next door - they partied but only until about midnight. After that I slept well and woke up at 7am. I organized my backpack and headed down to the bar for a cafe con leche grande. Today's stage (wow I am now walking complete stages) is only 21.3km (and I am saying only) and mostly downhill - great views in all directions. It is cold and damp and I am now wearing my fleece until I warm up. I am happy I did not send it back with Tanya - the Atlantic winds are chilly. The mist plays games with my mind - the mountain tops appear to be floating. The descent is tough as always on my feet but manageable. I stop ... read more

June 25 - Cacabelos to Trabadelo I had better start writing these blogs quicker. The days are melting together - the stages and venues fading to black - the reality of getting older and the seduction of the Camino itself - complacency in the eye of the familiar. I think I need to clarify something kind reader - I tend to dwell on the challenges and misadventures I face on the walk - it is fodder for and makes for a more interesting story. The fact of the matter is that every day on this Camino is a blessing - challenges and misadventures included. The daily vistas are stunning - each new hamlet and turn a freshly painted canvas just for me. There is a simple peace that can be found each day whilst walking 20 ... read more