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Published: June 28th 2014
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June 26 - Trabadelo to O'Cebreiro
I woke up at 6:30 - good night's sleep.
Today is another steep climb - 550m to 1,300m. As my guide book points out all three possible routes will be demanding - I expect nothing less - the book is correct- I am again rewarded with stunningly scary views. The paths are natural - treacherously rocky and full of horse crap as a number of people opt to take the easy way up. These horses are as brave as the donkeys on Greece's Santorini island taking all us out of shape tourists up the side of volcanic cliffs. I take my chances on my own two feet This time.
The slope is relentless and just as I believe I can't take another possible step I arrive at the postcard perfect O'Cebreiro.
It is at this point that's the winds start coming in off the Atlantic - translation - it is cold and damp. The countryside is more Celtic than Spanish and so is the culture - much in common with with western Ireland. I find a nice hostel, take a hot soak in
a 3 & 1/2 ft tub and have a siesta for an hour.
This region is noted for its caldo Gallegos (hot hearty cabbage, potato , white bean soups) and pulpo a la galega ( octopus dusted with paprika). True to my commitment to eat as the locals I order and consume the soup, thick bread and a beer for lunch and the octopus with a nice red glass of wine for dinner - the soup is delicious the octopus surprisingly ok.
By the time dinner is over it is really cold - I head back to my room to blog and to get a good night's sleep. I hear the ominous giggles and chatter of young girls in the next room - I hope they are as tired as I am - I doubt it.
Piss off of the day - steep rocky paths - add horse shit, mud, mountain streams and a tired pilgrim
Tip of the day -try to eat what the locals eat - how can one really experience a culture without trying to eat locals foods - i have to admit I was
disappointed to learn the octopus dish was the must try local dish in the Galicia region. i have not eaten octopus in over 40 years - 1971 in Spain - my memory was that it tasted like tough, chewy rubber bands. I didn't mind it this time. It tasted like tender rubber bands in paprika, hot oil and a heat spice.
Blessing of the day - decent gag reflex - it is hard to eat tentacles
Funny event of the day - I take maybe one bath a decade in Canada - because of my feet I would give my left trek pole for a long soak in a hot, hot jacuzzi here - in my room there is a tub but it is the size of a toy box - when full and I sit in it I feel like a giant in a sardine tin - no I did not take a selfie - I do have some self respect.
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Sal & Al
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Climbing up on Solsbury Hill
Getting caught up with your last few blogs. OMG Keith, the tub story is priceless ;) Thanks for the hearty laugh today...Al wanted to see that selfie of you in the tub (hahahaha) xo