Blogs from Galicia, Spain, Europe


Europe » Spain » Galicia October 4th 2019

We had a lovely apartment right on the Camino route in the old city. While the apartment was very modern, the back wall of the second bedroom was the wall of the city, dating back to the Middle Ages. We really felt steeped in history. Unfortunately, an unintended consequence of being right on the route and just down the street from a number of active bars was that overjoyed revelers were out in the streets once the bars closed and they reveled at high volume. Until 4:30 AM. Right under our windows. Despite double paned glass and thick stone walls, nothing could block the buzz of loud conversation and yelps. Note to self - if you decide to do another lovely, contemplative Camino, DO NOT book your final nights inside the city walls. We rose, rather ... read more
My Credential With Stamps
Quite Beautiful Compostela
Waiting for your Number to be Called

Europe » Spain » Galicia October 3rd 2019

Today is it! We are making our final hike of this Camino into Santiago de Compostela. Because it’s a long hike with a daunting hill, we get up early and have a cup of cafe con leche at the cafe next door, where Dom Pepe, the proprietor, calls out “Bom Camino” and “guapo” (good looking) to every passing hiker. His unfailing good humor is a lift at 6:30 AM. Dom Pepe insists on giving us a square of homemade apple breakfast cake (Wife made. Mother’s recipe) and it is yummy. By 7:30 we’re on the road and are well into the hike before it’s light out. The entire morning is a gradual uphill, enough to break into a sweat. As has become our habit, Katherine pulls out in front of me on the hills, while I’m ... read more
Beautiful Stretch of Path
First, Distant View of Santiago

Europe » Spain » Galicia October 1st 2019

Today was a relatively short and pleasant “Goldilocks” hike - a longish hike and not too many hills. We started out at around 8 AM, which with the wacky Spanish time zones meant it was still dark out. This meant we were up the hills before we were really awake. As has been typical, there was heavy fog and we walked for several hours before the sun burned it off. Once the sun came out, the walk was wonderful—much on comfortable paths through vineyards heavy with grapes. We neared Caldas de Reis, which didn’t initially seem promising. What we saw was industry along the river, and high rises. But like so many of the towns along this route, its interior is a polished gem, despite the rough exterior. The gem-like part of the city centers on ... read more
Caldas Buddies
Atmospheric Taberna O Moino
UK Dinner Partners

Europe » Spain » Galicia September 30th 2019

We took a rest day in Pontevedra and enjoyed walking through its twisting medieval streets. The apartment we were in was a modern duplex built on the shell of an ancient stone building in the center of Pontevedra’s historic district. It was also directly on the Camino de Santiago. Increasingly, as we walk this route it’s clear how the towns and villages along the route supported the pilgrimages of hundreds of thousands of pilgrims over the millennia. Here in Pontevedra, there is a tiny, shell-shaped chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, who is the patron of pilgrims on the Camino Portugues. It is memorably beautiful in part because it’s so intimate. People recognize that, with your hiking boots and clothes, you’re on the Camino and wish you a “Bo Camino.” There’s a deep reservoir of good ... read more
Intimate Interior of Chapel.
Beautiful Squares in Pontevedra
Nighttime View of Central Square

Europe » Spain » Galicia September 28th 2019

An early rise and Jesus knocked on the door at 7:30 with breakfast. We had learned the night before that he had summited 5 Himalayan peaks of 18,000+ feet in one year (1996), with his brother António. No sherpas, no oxygen. They had made their Everest summit just before the fated expedition that Jon Krakauer reported in his book “Into Thin Air” and had helped with the rescue operations. Hard to believe that this wiry, elfin 53-year-old had led such an adventurous life. We had our good, strong Spanish coffee, yogurt, toast and juice, then took a few pictures with Jesus. He drove us to the outskirts on Porriño and sent us on our way. The morning featured thick fog, the kind that leaves droplets in your hair. We walked out on the shoulders of roads, ... read more
Our Host: Jesus Martínez Novas
The Path Going Up, Up, Up
Great View Towards Redondela

Europe » Spain » Galicia September 27th 2019

We started hiking at 7:30 AM in Valença, Portugal and crossed the bridge over the Minho River into 8:35 in Tui, Spain. A five minute walk and two different time zones. As we had a cafe con leche in a cafe near the medieval Tui Cathedral, a light rain started to fall. I had put my rain jacket at the bottom of my pack, superstitious that putting it near the top would encourage the rain. That ploy didn’t work and as the rain got heavier, I dug down, pulled it out and put the rain cover on my pack. We stopped into the Cathedral and collected a stamp on our credential, then followed the route that ran through the ancient old city. Soon the path passed through forests of giant old eucalyptus and oak trees, following ... read more
Tui Cathedral
Cathedral Interior
Forest to left, vs. Industry to right

Europe » Spain » Galicia » Santiago de Compostela September 19th 2019

It will be a tiny post today. The main focus was ensuring that our luggage was within the limits, and after moving stuff from case to pack to bag, and sometimes back to case, we balanced it out with a couple of hundred grams spare in each case. Carry on is heavy, but still nowhere near the limit. We enjoyed a lovely peaceful last morning, breakfast at the Monastery , morning tea at an obscure cafe set in the end of a dark little lane, and then moved to the park where we people watched, I read a book , and Sue smiled at children playing, no doubt thinking of the small boy we left behind in Australia. It’s not long before we get an Ezra fix again; be patient Sue. As I said, this will ... read more
Morning Tea Before The Airport Bus
Last Hour In Santiago
Sunset As We Drove Through The Forests In Germany

Europe » Spain » Galicia September 18th 2019

The owner of the hotel Morgade allowed our group to see the locked stone chapel on the property that is normally locked. The previous owner was a priest who was given a share of land and had the chapel. From there. We headed off for the day and stopped at a little donativo ( place that has fruit and homemade treats out for a donation) We were to then walk in silence for a half hour as a group before separating. I somehow ended way in-front of the group but the walk was well marked and easy. Before I knew it was 5 miles and the vegetarian restaurant. I sat for quite a while and slowly other from the group made there way in to the courtyard seating area. The veggie burger was yummy. A ... read more

Europe » Spain » Galicia » Santiago de Compostela September 18th 2019

Hey, we leave Santiago tomorrow, but first we have to change accommodation. When our flights were booked to Frankfurt Hahn Airport, I couldn’t extend our booking at the Monastery, so I rebooked at a hotel a few steps from the airport bus. We will still eat breakfast at the Monastery tomorrow, 6€, cheap cheap, so it’s really a win win from our viewpoint. The usual breakfast at San Martin’s, said thanks and goodbye to the stocky waiter who I had a few chats with; he gave me a hug and sadly wandered into the kitchen - well, a slight exaggeration . We were earlier today and the crowd was yet to arrive. These waiters are full on. They are waiters, baristas, kitchen hands, table cleaners and setters, and they do a great PR job as well; ... read more
7am Sunrise.

Europe » Spain » Galicia » Santiago de Compostela September 17th 2019

Pretty tired today. I stayed up last night updating pictures for the 3 days they wouldn’t load up. They are now all there, and if people want to, when this post is opened, just select previous entry, and go back to Vigo and check out the pictures on each post. I was going to do it today but i started it , thought it was easy, but the time flew away on me. This morning I did a little googling and located a place where Sue could have a pedicure, so a walk across town was our first trip for the day. When i say first trip, it was 10.30 before we left the Monastery, after breakfast and a little clothes washing. Peluqueria Beymar is located up a dark tiny mall, just over the road from ... read more
Mercado De Abastos De Santiago
Abastos Market, Santiago
Market Halls

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