An early rise and Jesus knocked on the door at 7:30 with breakfast. We had learned the night before that he had summited 5 Himalayan peaks of 18,000+ feet in one year (1996), with his brother António. No sherpas, no oxygen. They had made their Everest summit just before the fated expedition that Jon Krakauer reported in his book “Into Thin Air” and had helped with the rescue operations. Hard to believe that this wiry, elfin 53-year-old had led such an adventurous life. We had our good, strong Spanish coffee, yogurt, toast and juice, then took a few pictures with Jesus. He drove us to the outskirts on Porriño and sent us on our way. The morning featured thick fog, the kind that leaves droplets in your hair. We walked out on the shoulders of roads,
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