We left Agra at 10:00 a.m. with a new driver, Dharmo, and our guide Lolita in tow. The plan was to visit Fatehpur Sikri, 36 kms outside of Agra, and drop her off after she showed us around. Fatehpur Sikri was built by the same Akbar you have read about (three wives, different religions). Amazing place -- it was only used for fourteen years presumably because, as the population grew, there was not sufficient water to sustain everyone. We also visited the Mosque there, which was not as pleasant an experience. While the mosque was lovely, the hawkers there were the most persistent we have met yet. As we dropped Lolita, she passed me a package of bindis for my forehead and wished me a happy birthday. I will bring them home for Tiana and her
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