The drive up the winding roads to Dalat is quite surreal – the landscape changes, the light is different, the air is crisp and fresh and it is like crossing the border into the middle class. We had heard the Vietnamese refer to it as the Paris of Vietnam, where they come from all over the country on romantic getaways to the city of eternal spring, and that it was filled with kitsch and tacky touches, in true Vietnames style. But our experience was quite the opposite. By a fluke, the last room available at Dreams Hotel was the best, and 25 dollars bought us a balcony on the top floor with a huge tub, complete with jet streams, as well as the best breakfast we've had in Vietnam so far, and the friendliest guy in
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